finally got all seals changed in timing chain cover and my water pump changed out, put everything back together. Now the car wont start... I did get it to run momentarily but it was exteremely rough... Took the wire from the coil to the opti off (to see if I was getting sparrk to opti) and engine turns over easily and will crank all day. When I hook the wire back up engine cranks very hard and makes alot of odd sounds. Belching fire out of the throtle body. Is there any way the timing is off? The way I understand it the opti will only go on one way? Is this true, or could I have it out of position somewhat? It really just seems out of time to me.. is this in any way possible?

 

Step 1

Quadruple check the plug wires, make sure 2 or more are not crossed

 

Checked.. I labeled them all before I tore it apart and verified it after I put it back together and it wouldnt start. I have to hook up jumper cables to even get it to crank over.. Even with the jumper cables hooked up it crankes hard and ususally will only crank over a couple of times then its dead. I'm wondering if my battery is totally shot? Would this possibly give me too low a voltage to provide an adequate spark?

 

Sounds like the opti is not indexed properly.

I know what your screen name seems to indicate, but what car are you working on? Sometimes people work on other stuff than their screen name. Consider making a short sig, so people have a reference or indicate the car in the text.

 

I'm working on a 95 Z28. That is what it seems like to me, but I though the opti could only go in one way? How do I correct this problem?

 

Remove it and put it on correctly.

 

It is goes on correctly only one way, but lots of people manage to get it on wrong.

 

Well, I tore into it today and removed the Optispark. It really wasnt as difficult to get apart as I remembered it being just a couple of weeks ago (I guess practice makes perfect). Anyways, I removed the opti and I could see markings on the coupler which clearly showed the dow pin was set into one of the circular indentations of the coupler. I'm fairly confident this is the problem.

Anyways, I'm now trying to put it back on correctly. Not having much luck, finding it rather difficult to get that dow pin into that little hole. Does anyone have any tips that might make this a little easier on me? I guess this time I need to verify that the opti is seated all the way up agains the TC cover before I put the bolts in and call it good. I am attempting to do this with the crankshaft hub still on... is this a bad idea? Any feedback which might make this task a little easier for me would be greatly appreciated...

 

Not so uncommon. I did the same thing.

Because it's a PITA to get to the opti, the second time around I removed the cap to get access to the rotor. There are 4 inverted torx bolts holding the cap on, but a small nut driver will take them out - don't know the size 'cuz I'm not at home right now. Once you have the cap off you can see how you screwed up by putting the dowel in one of the 3 "cloverleaves" on the back of the opti and seeing how the rotor swings back in forth. Mount the opti correctly and the rotor will have no play. Put the cover back on and put everything back together. Make sure you don't get any drippage on the inside of the opti when you have it apart, or you get to do this yet another time.

BTW, I had a problem with an reman opti. The 4-wire pickup would not match the pins and seat cleanly. It just wouldn't line up. If you had any problems with this check that the connector isn't damaged.

You shouldn't have to pull the hub, just the balancer/pulley. Manually turn the engine a bit if the hub is in the way.

 

Sometimes the opti will tend to hang up and not slide over the pin. If its on the right way, the opti bolt holes will be flush all around with the timing cover.

I found lining it up properly, and then giving it a firm hit with the meaty part of your fist will cause it to pop on.

 

One other thing I forgot to mention, if the Z is getting on in years and miles you might consider putting new water pump and opti seals in the front cover while everything is apart. I also recall getting some oil leakage around the bolts holding the opti to the front cover, so I used a little RTV under the bolt heads.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! Some good ideas I didnt think of. By the way 93Firehawk, the original project was to replace shot water pump and replace all the TC seals. I got all that done and put it back together and this is the result. I think the long and challenging journey is almost over!

 

There are reference marks on the back of the opti to indicate #1 or #6. Just line the special slot pointing to the correct one for where your dowel pin is sitting and carefully slide it on without causing it to spin. You can always make a reference mark on the outside edge of the opti drive that you can watch as you slide it on (so you know if it has moved or not). Putting a mark at 12 o'clock will let you watch it from above as you slide it on.

 

Got the Opti back on and in position... she fired up first try. What a relief! Thanks again for all the help.