383 LT1, LE2 heads, Comp Cams custom grind .510/.520, stock suspension, 3.23's and street tires. What would it run in the 1/4? What about with slicks?
Now, compare that to the same setup, only with a stock 350 block?

Thanks

 

your really wasting a good set up with stock radials and stock gears...

 

Trust me, those will all be swapped out in good time. I worded the question stupidly... I'm looking for what will be a faster option on the track for me with those heads and that cam. I have a potential 383 to buy if it will be worth it. I don't want to buy a 383 and waste away the potential by putting those parts on it.

 

There are desktop dynos available but just as here in this forum, in order to get a more accurate answer, you will have to provide more information. The least of which would be CR.

With regard to the cam lift specs. The numbers you provided are probably advertised lift. That is useless for any type of calculations. What is needed is the lift at 0.050. The duration is also needed.

There probably isn't a soul around that could guess the performance with regard to tires used.

Don't think you should buy it if you have to ask, "how fast will I go if buy this?"

 

I see. Well I don't have anymore info right now for the 383 other than forged -16 cc srp pistons, forged eagle I-beams, cast eagle crank, and splayed 4 bolt caps. I guess I shouldn't have asked for a 1/4 mile time. All I really want to know is if I would be faster putting my parts on my car as of now... or with the 383. I'll try to get the CR later on.

 

-16 cc pistons in a 55cc head, even with zero decking, is a less than optimal static compression unless you plan on FI.

 

I can't ballpark it but it sounds like a pretty tame / boring setup...

 

I agree, -16cc pistons will be a little bit on the low side as far as CR goes.

 

Yeah, the engine was built mainly for FI, however I was planning on nitrous pretty soon and thought the forged internals would definately come in handy. It's also a very good price for a never-run 383.

You think I should maybe just replace the rods and pistons in my current motor? Will that be good enough even after nitrous to keep it reliable?

 

Nitrous loves more compression. I think you should just upgrade your current setup. Get some good forged pistons that will handle nitrous (not Mahle) and some forged rods (I-beam or H-beam doesn't really matter). Unless you're planning on a huge shot, the stock crank and 2-bolt mains will hold fine.

 

Why not Mahle? with the proper setup, they seam to handle nitrous ok

 

they do, but they recommend no more than a 200 shot.

 

You just said it, they handle nitrous ok. I would want something that handles nitrous very well or easily. Up to a 100 shot or so I'd say that Mahles will be fine with the right ring gap. I figured by the way he talked about it, though, he was wanting more.

 

michigan speed just ran a LS1 mustang on pinks, and after we got distribution problems fixed(single nozzle, port would have been alot easier, but we didn't have one, everything was donated) and the tune dialed in, we were running a 250 shot on Mahle Pistons

 

That's impressive. The Mahles have gone up in price as well. Just holding and inspecting them, they seem too light and thin for that much stress. They also expand more than standard pistons.