A normal U-bolt exhaust clamp won't fit. Been there done that. The slip fit is right where all the primaries begin to merge so there isn't any room for it.

A band type like the Supertrap might fit but if its as bad as you say I doubt it has the clamping power to seal it.

Your best option is to pull the header and have someone tig weld it all the way around then pray you can reinstall it. Or try gooping on a bunch of high-temp RTV and crossing your fingers...

I never understood why everyone likes these things...

 

I have the same with my Jethots #1 primary, nice & tight new but they wear a little with time from vibration, etc. An old-timer told his fix which I'm going to try. Well first off it only takes me 3 mins to pull this out, which I did. Cleaned it with Lacquer Thinner (both ends). And I used some hi-temp 2part epoxy from O'Rielly. It sets in 4 mins and gets rock hard, yet somewhat flexible. It stinks when you run it till it fully cures which I have little patience for. But the real trick was the T-clamp but use two one one both sides of the seam with the thick-white gasket material from O'Rielly's, it comes in a 10" x 10" square. First make a paper pattern that wraps around and butts together (not overlapped), then cut about a 2" piece of gasket mat'l to fit your pattern. Now soak it in water for a little while to soften it to mold without wrinkling. fit this in place with the clamps (same time & a little challenging with one hand). Now run down the T-clamps which will squeeze the water out and set a mold of sorts around the same. Let it dry a bit and it should hold up for a long time.

I too tried every RTV including the copper and they all last about a week roughly. The 2-part stuff was just an effort to fill any gaps in addition to the gasket & clamps. Clamps alone are not going to crimp the primary tubing.

 

If i may make a suggestion here, I have Hooker LT's and my primary does not leak. But I can see how it would. If its really becomming a problem then I would suggest a stainless steel band clamp. It will stretch around the joint and seal the leak, and at the same time if you need to get it apart the clamp will not compress the tubes so they will come apart easily. Just about any local exhaust shop should have them or at the least know where to get them. I get mine from work, we have a selection from 1.5" to 9" in 1/4" pipe size increments. I have them all over my exhaust and any time I do any exhaust work its the only thing I will use.

Solder, rtv and paper gaskets will all disintigrate with the heat and leak again.

edit: this is what i am talking about, not the right size but you get the idea.
http://www.market-plan.com/jcw/2149.htm

 

There is 2 options...

Ultra Copper RTV - works well

2 cycle exhaust sealent.. it's similar to silly-putty in texture, but I applied a think coating to the insert tube, installed, and it has yet to leak... worked great.

 

i used Permatex ultra copper and mine has sealed up both times i've had the headers out

 

exactly the clamp I'm looking for thanks for the tip.

 

I ended up welding mine because I hated that leak soo much....JetHot(where I bought the header from) denies they have alot of customers w/ leaks there. They told me to try a pipe expander..I did..didnt work...They told me to try a lil High Temp RTV or some Muffler Mender..tried both..didnt work...I got sick and tired of it leaking and rattling around sound like a pos car so I went ahead and yanked it out and TIG welded it. It was a bitch to get in, but it was well worth it. That is the poorest design in the world on that header if you ask me..The slip-tube has WAY too much play in it causing the leak..Maybe if it actually had some resistance going in the tube it possibly wouldnt leak..Im done ranting

Cody

 

My slip fit is also leaking. Do you think that, that band clamp would work better or would something like this:

T-Bolt Style Clamp

The band clamp is wider but it does not go all the way around i think. The T-bolt goes all the way around but is not as wide.

Or if you think i should use some of that permatex stuff let me know. Can you take the stuff off once you put it on?

 

Sometimes this place never ceases to amaze me. The slip fit is to go around the steering linkage, I'm not sure if you guys didn't realize that or what. So whoever said it's bad that the passenger side doesn't have a slip fit, I would hafta ask, "why?".

Those of you with slip fit leaks, how long have you had them on the car? If you say a month or less, hit yourself. After many heat cycles the slip fit will make itself leak-proof. If you guys are THAT impatient, then get some RTV sealant or something. I've had my Hooker LTs on since March and the only exhaust leak I have is where the ypipe meets the catback.

 

So you don't have to remove the steering linkage.

 

Mine has leaked from day one. I have tried those band clamps and nothing works, this winter they are coming off and being welded. the steering linkage removal is way more fun that hearing the leak all the time.

 

Mine never leaked.

 

Well mine is leaking from there for sure. They have been on for about 2 months and they still leak. I put a hose right next to it with the other end next to my ear and i hear a loud tick tick tick. When i dyno'ed the car it was running extremly rich because of the leak. I am trying to get it fixed by this saturday because i am going to a GM vs Ford shootout that is between two internet sites. Norcal-ls1 vs California fords. I am gonna be running my car and there are a few of my stang friends that are gonna be running also so i want my car to be at its best.

 

go OL and run!! That is what I have done for over a year....

 

The track wont let me where i live. Besides in California i wont get to far on the streets with open LTs.