Here goes......(gas.....spark....)

I have a 224/230 cam. It pulls great down low, and makes good horespower. 348rwtq, 339hp @ 5500rpms (too rich from 5500+)

It's not enough. I'm in the process of building a 355, steel crank, h-beam rods, forged pistons, and ported heads.

My questions is to guys running big cams.....bigger than 230/236 and cc306:

How big does it get? Where does it stop?

I will not get a cam too small this time. I want a powerhouse, a chopper, an eyebrow raiser, and a weekend warrior. I'm not worried about everyday driving, just an every now and then cruiser, and something to set in the shop and wait for that sucker to try and race me on the street.

I know all about the custom cams, and I'm going to get my heads flowed, I just don't want someone at a cam company selling me a cam that is too small. I want to know more about big cams before some leads me into the wrong directions.

BTW.....I know all about lobe sep angles, duration, and lift, so I can save some the typing time on explaining these. I know the in's and outs to the camshafts below 230/236, and cc306, but hardly anything over these sizes since that is a touchy subject to the everyday street drivers.

I'm also going to shoot around 200hp gas also!

IF someone has specs on cams bigger than these with their mods, just let me know what you think. Good, great, do you wish you had more (of course, but lets be realistic) too much?

I want to hear some cam specs, with some times or HP #s to back it up.

Thanks,



D Moss

 

There are a couple of people on here that can do a custom grind. I would give them your engine/head numbers and let them calculate something for you. Maybe even a solid roller, if you are up for it.

 

Hey shoe,

I'd love to run a solid roller, but I have self aligning 1.6 roller rockers, and I don't think I can check the valve lash with the aligning plates there. (on each side of the roller tip)
And I do want to reuse these roller rockers.

Also, this post isn't about me finding the right cam for my car, it is finding out those different grinds that I'm not familiar with. I want to know what other people are running, what difficulties are there with their cam, satisfaction factor, choppness, all the good stuff.

I've done searches, and the majority of searches come up with cc306, 230/236. I can find some 236/242, but few and far inbetween and most people haven't ran them yet, just ordered. Not only that, I know there are some nastier cams out there, just no documentation about it.

Thanks

D Moss

 

240/240@ .050 with some afr 190 heads will make right around 500hp if the rest of the air system is free flowing and the computer is set up right.

 

Thank You Revolutionary.

Any more?

D Moss

 

well, I portd my own heads, and they flow descent, but no the best. my heads have good lowlift #s, and ok mid-high lift #s. so if you can port any or can pay for them, then you can run a bigger cam w/no regrets. I have the 233/239 .580 lift on a 112 LSA cam in mine. just started it thursday and still waiting for my cable/tune to get here (probably mond/tues) before I can drive it since I upgraded to 30lb injs. my eng. runs GREAT and has the responsiveness of a sport bike. really. but like I said I havent driven it yet so I cant speculate on that side yet. but it does have a nice lope to it and revs very cleanly. look here for the rest of my setup if you want.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=268630


but it sounds to me like you want a takenoprisoners cam that doesnt need fuel mileage/driveablity. I would step up to a solid cam if Iwere you. Im kinda wishing I did while I was at it. the only thing that stopped me was I was goin to reuse my orig. lifters and didnt want to buy the solid rollers and the nec. bigger springs. but I ended up getting the comp r's anyways, so all I would have had to do is pay about another $150 for the extra cost of springs and to have the seats machined. Im pretty sure you can use those rockers w/solid cams, all you need to do is get a feeler gauge (blade style) and cut down the end to fit in the guided part of the roller tip. know what I mean? the other bad part of the solid cam is you lose the function of the knock sensors due to the lash clearance.

chris

 

exactly.

As far as the solid roller, I do love the knock sensor, so I may stay with the hydr roller.

I have home ported heads, and I will have them flowed before they go back onto the car.

Keep them comming....

Thanks

D Moss

 

I just finished up my GM 847 install...

234/242 .575"/.595" on 112 LSA

I will be going to the dyno shortly and will let you know how it goes...

 

If your looking for a no doubt bad *** car your giving up some if youdon't want to go solid roller. But to each his own. I know that thunder racing has SAR2Ks motor that make 450 rwhp ona stock bottom end. That cam is pretty big but the exact specs excape me. Call thunder racing monday and ask to talk to steve stumph(just say steve..they know who it is). Tell him what you are looking at building and that you want to know about his cam or something simular.

Just for compairison. My cam is 255/263 @ 50 657/628 on a 110 LS...but its solid roller.

tim

 

Tim, that cam is freakin' huge. Mine's an HR and a bit smaller, but near the upper limit of an HR for my 383 build. Just curious, why the smaller lift on the exhaust lobe?

 

with a solid roller dont you have to adjust the valves all the time? thats just something i have always heard and i was just wandering. i have a set of 1.6 s/a rr's also. i know the solid roller cars haul a$$ but if i cant drive it around on the weekend without having to always adjust the valves it might not be worth it especially if you know nothing about doing that like me lol.
so is that true about having to all the time?

 

no, not at all. ask anyone who has one. I have one in my Iroc w/o the roller rockers and of course no polylocks either. only adj. them 3 times period. once was initial setup on fresh eng/cam. second time after warming up and set to hot lash. third time after about 1000 mi. of street driving, I decided I wanted to see where they were at and make sure none had lost there adjment. they were all right on. another good thing about solid cams is that you can adj. the lash tighter or looser. tighter will increase duration and lift, looser will decrease them. so by changing the lash, you have basically changed the cam up or down in size. and the other thing is you can spin them to the moon w/o valve float like the heavy hyd. roller lifters. for instance my Iroc would rev freely to 7500 rpm w/o missing a beat. I realized pretty quick that it didnt improve the times in my car goin that high w/this setup, but I could rev that high if i ever step up in cam and or port the heads.

anyways, if you want to be safe, adj. them two times a year. once in spring, and another time in middle of summer. the only real problem with solid ROLLER cams is the roller bearings dont live as long as hyd. s due to not being oiled the same. there are lifters from at least 3 company's that offer improved oiling for there roller lifters. search on roller cam here and Im sure it will come up. it wasnt that long ago I saw that post.

 

Call Crower Cams.I ran a small block 360CID with their set up and rev kit for three years and never hurt it.That is racing 5 night's a week on dirt.Just watch your ramp speed on the cam. I would say that it made well over 600Hp on alchol.As far as adjustment goes after the inital set-- I would check them if I didn't have anything else to do--sometimes it was several weeks and they never got checked-- Ran this same engine freshened up every year for 3 years.

 

I know this has already been said but Ill reinforce it a little... GET A CUSTOM CAM! Customs are really the only way to get max power out of a set of heads granted you have the flow numbers. Power is all about the setup you have and how all the parts work together because if you look around some guys are running very fast and putting down 380+rwhp with cams smaller than the one you are running now on stock bottom ends.

 

My buddy made 390 rwhp with a bad opti and one burnt plug wire. He was using the TPIS ZZX cam (240/240 595/595 112) with fully ported TPIS AFR's, lunati 383 bottom end, etc. etc.