camshaft swap
 

I'm going to be ordering cc306cam next month. I'm trying to keep the stock heads for now. Trying to figure out if I'm going to need aftermarket pushrods, lifters, etc. I'm on a tight budget for this swap and don't want to end up need evething. 96 lt1 154xxx miles

Re: camshaft swap
 

You won't need aftermarket lifters but with 154K you should replace them. You'll probably need different pushrods. And you'll need a tune. Since you won't really develop power to the potential of the cam with stock heads, why not save up and do everything when you can afford it? You'll be much happier with the result...

Re: camshaft swap
 

I want to do everything at one time, I've got all new bearings, gasket set, piston rings,and studs for the head.

Re: camshaft swap
 

:confused:

Clarify.... are you keeping the stock, unported heads for now, or are you doing heads and cam at one time?

Re: camshaft swap
 

I'm going to keep the stock heads for now

Re: camshaft swap
 

OP

I would do new valve springs for the new cam

at 150k+ miles you should consider new lifters. Carefully inspect the ones you have and make the decision.

if you are not decking the block or heads or going with a thiner head gasket you likely will be fine with stock 7.200" PR but do measure when you get the motor back together first

Re: camshaft swap
 

Alright I think I might wait to rebuild the motor till tax return so I know I can an order everything I need and possible have machine shop hone the block and pot the inintake and heada

Re: camshaft swap
 

your initial post was asking if you needed different PR for a 306 cam with stock heads.

Generally not but always good to measure to see and get different ones (typically shorter) if needed.

Then later you posted you have new gaskets, bearings, rings and studs for the heads that you were going to do with the cam.

Considerably more work and bearings & rings are something you just don't throw in unless you are machining or at least having a machine confirm cyl bore and if the crank just needs a polish or under grind.

If you are not losing a lot of oil either from burning it or leaking and compression is good than just do the cam. At 150k mi the stock springs are done and without any cam should be replaced especially if you rev the motor higher than 5k RPM.

Your lifters may be fine, you just need to carefully inspect

What I think is a factor to consider when modifying a 150k+ mi motor is when you put a cam in for example to make more HP you wind up spinning the motor higher RPM's...this will tax other areas of the motor (bearings, rod bolts, etc) and many find themselves in a spun bearing situation where then not only do they need a complete rebuild but often new crank or rods because those were damaged.

If machine shop checks out the block and all is good than having the motor rebuilt with a cyl hone, new rings, polished crank, rods resized with ARP bolts, rod, crank & cam bearings will make it new again and with head porting & new valve springs & RR allowing the new cam to see its potential will make one nice motor.

Obviously you won't know current condition of motor until it gets to a machine shop who can mic everything. Often the cyl needs a .030 bore which requires new pistons but ideally the crank is good with just a polish or a .010 grind. The crank machining will dictate what + bearing size to get and the machine shop should spec that.

Re: camshaft swap
 

I'm making zero oil pressure. I done replaced oil pump, pick up tube, drive gear, in terminate shafts, and filter and primed the oil system over. I can't get any pressure to build. The car been sitting for 8 months and was fine before it sat. Then started it up and had no oil pressure

Re: camshaft swap
 

For reference, here is the thread regarding lack of oil pressure, which really didn't seem to get resolved:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...essure-884620/

Re: camshaft swap
 

So I just decided to rebuild the motor. I've try ed everything I possible can to get oil pressure