115k 6500rmps and still running STRONG

 

So would it be a good idea to spring the oil pump for more pressure if you'll be spinning high RPM's after a cam install?

 

IMO, if you are going to touch the oil pump at all, put in a new one with a new screen and higher pressure spring (or shim the spring you have). While my oil pressure is good now (with a new pump and white spring), I wouldn't mind having just a little higher pressure. (My bearing clearances are not super tight as I prefer looser than tighter)

 

Just happened to me as well. I didn't buy into the mysterious LT1s spin bearings with a cam, and still don't. My motor had 180K on it, oil pressure wasn't the best at idle, but it had good oil pressure when revved. Car was making good power too, so I figured no problem. I ended up KILLING rods 3 and 4. When we pulled the pan off, there was a LOT of metal. You could take the rods and they would wobble on the crank. Rod number 3 had the bearings meld into one essentially. I'm not sure how the mains are numbered, but the main next to the 3 and 4 rod looked pretty bad as well. All the others were in excellent shape for the mileage. I don't think we caused the problem at all. We had the motor out of the engine bay to install it, and there wasn't ANY sludge in the lifter galley at all. I was amazed at how good the motor looked. Only thing I can think that may have caused it was a missed 3rd gear. Rev limit was set at 6600, shifting at 63-6400. I raced a supra that night, beat him the first race, missed 3rd the 2nd race, and then on the 3rd race, it started to knock, and lost oil pressure. Later that night, when putting it on the trailer, (me and one other guy, I just couldn't push it up the ramps), cranked it up and oil pressure was ok. No knock at idle, any more and it was loud.

Does anyone know how the crank feeds the rods? Trying to get an idea of where the lack of oil may have come from.

MG - I am going with a budget 383, and I know you have recommended the Scat I-beams. Think they will hold 420 - 450 RWHP N/A and a 150 shot? I'd like to keep the lighter weight of the I-beam since it will be primarily N/A.

 

Amazing. 45k on the engine, stock ported heads, big valves, mild cam, all other bolt-on mods. I admit that I beat on it; ran low 13's with 304 rwhp.

Bottom end knock! What now?

1) new high compression short block?
2) new stroker short block?
3) OTHER??? I SOLICIT YOUR SUGGESTIONS.

its broken. please help a brother powerfreak.

 

well yall I am gettin scared now. I am about to do the cam install on my car. I have plenty of oil pressure. just under 40 at idle and goes really high under wide open. Would installing the ca kill my motor? you guys are saying that if you have plenty of oil pressure you are good right? I have always thought my oil presure was very high compared to soe of the other LT1 cars I have seen. My Moms car is a good example, 94 z28, here car is still running pretty well, but the oil pressure is very low. It shows just above the red at idle, goes up to about 40 under wot. That car has 228,000 miles and has been babied. I have know idea about how the previuos owners of my car took care of it or what not, but it runs strong and has plenty of oil pressure , so would I be good to go on the cam swap?

 

badblackta,

I think the moral of the story here is it's a roll of the dice, but most seem to be ok with a cam swap. I was fine when I did mine with 103k miles on the clock.