I called Bullet today for a recommendation on my new combination. I chose them because I have a lot of local FI Stock Eliminator friends with some fast cars that their cams work really well in. My goal is to have a fast bracket car to run a local stick-shift series that travels at several area tracks. A certain time on the time slip doesn't concern me although I would hope to be near the quicker cam only cars; somewhere in the low 11s I would guess.

Here is what they recommended: 238 @ 0.050" (intake), 243 @ 0.050" (exhaust) and .512 lift to avoid potential valve clearance. They said I should be able to spin it to 6800 rpms and still be within the parameters of an aftermarket tuner (I use Ed Wright) to do the pcm.

Very quickly about the car: 3100 lbs. race weight, stock (but fresh) LT1, Kook's headers, all bolt-ons, G-Force 6-speed, 4.30 gear, 28" slick, S&W suspension components, etc. This car will NOT be driven on the street.

What do you think? Looking for a low maintenance, easy on parts cam that will leave and pull hard.

 

cam is too small and I think the gear is borderline.......and your not going to do too good with a 6spd. bracket car.

 

I would look for a cam with more lift.

 

I too was thinking the cam may be too small. Do I need more or less gear? I say bracket car but everyone that runs in this traveling series has a stick car as well so we're all in the same boat.

 

I'm assuming "stock but fresh LT1" means stock cubes and untouched heads.

If you are stock cubes and stock heads, and are focused on the strip like it seems, then that cam is great. No point in going much bigger on duration because you will make it harder to tune for little to no benefit on a stock cube engine, and more lift will do nothing if you are choked by your stock heads. That cam is on the big side if anything assuming you are stock cubes/heads, and it will want to be spun right aroung the 6800 they are saying. Which is awfully high for a stock bottom end to see regularly.

They know what they are doing! You shouldnt hesitate to trust them more then an internet forum - they do this for a living, where as most of us are hobbyists.

Launches with 4.30s w/ 28" slicks and a 6 speed cammed LT1 will be hell on your rear end. I hope you have a quality one!

You never said if it was 1/8th or 1/4, so we cannot comment on your gearing or tire size.

 

My plan is to have a fresh long block with the stock crank, new bearings, rings, etc., and good forged H-beam rods and pistons. I do plan to leave the heads stock other than a valve job and better springs to match the cam. Might get Lloyd to give his #2 treatment to them.

The tracks they run at vary between 1/8 and 1/4. Probably as much one as the other so it kind of needs to be set up with a happy medium to run both.

I have a good Moser 12-bolt with a spool, gun-barrel drilled axles, etc.

 

I agree - that cam will make that car fly. The only thing I'd look at is a little more lift if possible.

 

That's the first thing that caught my eye as well. What are the advertised durations and LSA?

 

Not quite sure about the LSA but I believe (from the grind numbers they gave me) the advertised duration is 289/299.

Does this combination sound like a low 11 second cam only car with everything else being set up correctly? Again, it's just a number on the window but I'm trying to guess here. As I sort it out, in the back of my mind, I'd like to "compete" for the fastest cam car with going with a solid roller set-up.

 

I agree that cam could use more lift. That shouldn't even be close to clearance problems on a stock motor.

 

Anyone who says ".512 lift to avoid potential valve clearance" and grinds cams scares me honestly. Valve LIFT has zero to do with valve clearance, in fact most times a lower lift cam will have a longer seat duration and run into MORE piston to valve clearance problems.

To illustrate that point.... lets just say you are on a 112 ICL, that will put the cam at MAX lift 68° BBDC roughly, that's 22° PAST half stroke. If you are worried about Piston to Valve clearance when the piston is almost 2" down the bore, you missed the boat.

Without knowing the LSA and advance it's hard to say what it will do honestly.

You can have a much more aggressive cam than that and do it correctly and it will be easy on parts with almost zero service to the motor.

Bret