I recently aquired another LT1 that I would like to build. I would like to build a stock rod 383. I would of course have the rods checked and new bolts installed. I was wondering if this is possible and what crank and pistons would be good. I want to buy reasonable parts, so I can afford machine work. The car is never raced and is a daily driver.

 

I like your thinking (cheap...lol)

Anyway if the rods check out good they should hold up fine on a N/A motor that keeps the revs below 6500 rpm and 450 rwhp.

I would use the Eagle or scat cast steel crank and some nice forged pistons like the -12cc dished JE/SRP pistons. About every company makes a simular piston so there are a butt load to choose from.

 

I think the stock rods will require a lot of clearancing and my also require a small base circle cam.

 

There is a VERY fast guy on the b-body boards that has stock rods in his stroker, he pops in over here once in awhile so hopefully he sees this. When we discussed it over there though someone made the point that a set of Scat I-beam rods cost little more than the stockers would to be rebuilt something to at least look into. The Scat cast crank is supposed to be decent too.

 

I ran stock rods (arp bolts and polished beams) in my 383 for about 6 years. Also ran Wiseco pistons and scat cast steel crank. I sprayed the motor for 5 years with 2 stages of spray 100/150, then 150/150 for the last few years. The very last year I removed the spray and ran a pullied S-trim at approx 14psi w/ alky injection. Original cam was a comp 305 and the last 2 years I can a CC 236/248. Motor rarely saw over 6500rpms though.

Everything looked fine when I tore it apart earlier this year. I agree with one of the above posts though. With the price of decent I beam rods today, hardly makes sense to do much with the stockers...

BTW, the h-beams I'm using in the current 383 rebuild required much more clearencing that the stock rods did...

 

I was gonna say the same things. The stock rods would clear alot better than h beams. I doubt on a stock rod u would need a small base circle cam, but I'm not entirely sure. Also with the price of scat I beams versus how much u have in parts and machine work for ur stock rods it might better to invest in a little bit better rod.

Good luck with the build either way.

 

You don't need small base circle cam with stock rods. Stock sbc rods will hold quite a bit of power and are severly underated, with ARP bolts and polished beams they are quite stout.

 

I have the eagle I beams in mine and they hardly needed clearancing, the stock rods are realy close in dimension to them, when I have had problems with clearance is when the rod uses a cap screw type fastener. Stock type rod bolts almost don't need clearancing.

 

I was thinking about a scat 9000 crank and a good set of pistons. I would like to run a cc306 cam. None of my choices are carved in stone, except the budget concept. I would like to hear recommendations on pistons. I learned a long time ago that I can learn from other peoples experiences/mistakes. I have no plans on heads as of yet. I will probably run a stock set that has been worked with a good set of springs.

 

I have a set of Forged 383 pistons for use with stock length rods. check my sig or shoot me a pm for details.

 

If you have a tight budget I would keep the stock crank and rods with good rod bolts and spend your money on the heads/cam tuning aspect of the engine. You will be much quicker by doing a good heads/cam 355 then a cheaper stroker with lesser heads. The thing about a stroker is it needs more head flow then a 355 and will usaully only make more torque not more HP. It is hard enough to hook a properly built 350 much less the added torque of a stroker on the street. JMO Later Clint

 

I have no intent on racing my car. I have oned this car for five years and haven't even thought of racing it once. I just want a good performing, strong running engine. I have a friend who ports heads and has access to a flow bench. He does a lot of work on Buick GN engines and has done other types of aluminum heads. This will be a slow buildup. I am trying to figure out the best path to prevent costly mistakes.

 

Mean Green are those pistons the ones with coated skirts?

Those are some decent TRW pistons, cheap too.

 

i'm not sure what you mean by coated? all i know is they came with the short block i bought. I switched pistons and have these extra. 4.030 bore, 5.7 rod for a 383. nearly brand new $300.

 

the skirts should be black with the Sealed Pro symbol if they are coated.