Currently $249 at Summit.

 

What the difference between there $71 sbc double roller set and that one.

 

wow, i just need to see some pics of this mess .

 

Any normal SBC set does not have the teeth on the cam gear to run the water pump.

 

I don't know how to post pictures. Send me your email for some pics of the old timing set.

I don't need the WP drive gear. Finally getting a break

 

Then, why didn't you run something like a Cloyes double roller to start with?

 

I asumed when I bought the engine package it would come with a aftermarket timing set. My builder has lots of faith in stock GM parts not thinking it would fail. Its his first timing chain failure.

 

I got the heads back today with a complete engine gasket set and a cloyes double roller timing set all free of charge from my engine Guy.
I have a few questions on installing the timing set.
I removed the WP drive shaft with the mounting bracket that was bolted into the block. Do I leave it like that?
Where do I have to clearence the LT1 timing cover? Anyone have pics
Is there anything else thats needs to be done?
Also I noticed the gears are not the same size as the stock LT1 gears is this correct.
I can't wait to get the car back on the road. Its been a log couple of weeks.

 

Yes, you just leave the block the way it is after removing the drive gear.

The timing cover might have to be clearanced in several places. I found out where by putting white grease on the timing set, installing the cover and rotating the engine a few times by hand. It's pretty obvious where you have to remove metal from teh pattern on the cover.

The timing gears don't have to be the exact same size, the cam gear has got to be twice that of the crank gear. Because of the differences in chain type the sprockets are different but you'll still have that 2:1 ratio.

 

i have a stock lt1 timing set with my cammed lt1. never had any problems. I dont think the timeing chain is your problem. something might have caused it to jump and break all the teeth.

 

I tore everything down and put everything back together and now the car won't start. The timing set fit perfect, I had no problem putting on the heads and intake.
Its looking like no spark. I can hear sucking and popping it sounds like its only the compression making noise.

Then the clutch pedal became solid after trying to start it so many times. So I unbolted the slave from the tranny and tried to pump the pedal and it went soft and somehow lost all pedal pressure. Will this be my master cyclinder or slave cyclinder. How do I diagnose which one failed.
This car is getting the better side on me.

 

you're sure the timings right? you are sure that the pistons aren't cracked? When you smash a valve, its hard not to do something to the piston in the process.

 

You bleed the air out of the clutch by unbolting the slave cylinder and pumping the piston rapidly. You'll feel when it's bled. Never, NEVER, step on the pedal with the slave disconnected unless you want to buy a new one.

On the engine issue, check for spark by sticking a plug in the number one spark plug wire, laying the plug on the engine and cranking it over. You'll either see spark or you won't. If you see spark the look elsewhere....like to the timing chain installation itself. Lots of people have gotten the thing installed a tooth off. Does the engine turn over faster than before? That's a sign that valve timing is off...

Good luck!

 

opti pin in the right hole? coil/icm groud wire? fireing order wrong? you prbably need a new slave cylinder now. did you ever pull the cam to inspect it? could have brokenn in two and not opening all the valves. and would also explain your timing chain problem in the beginning.

 

thanks for the info on the clutch.
I do have spark on the #1 wire and no the motor is not cranking any faster then normal. I assumed I had no spark because I don't hear it even try to fire or stumble.

With the timing set I installed the cam gear the only way it would go on because of the dowl pin. And the crank gear went on with the #1 piston at top dead center and the timing mark on the gear was pointing perfectly at the timing mark on the cam gear.

With my opti its a 95 so I think it only goes on one way because of the dowl pin. I'm going to pull all the wires and make sure they go to the right cyclinders on the opti.

I don't think the cam is broken because the cam gear moved with very little effort and the oil pump was pumping oil. I'm going to remove the valve covers to make sure all valves are moving.

Last night we tried cranking the engine and we heard an awfull metal on metal sound. I was sure we had another crash but its was the starter. The end of the starter broke off and was loose in the bell housing. I must have dropped it removing it last time.