Alright in the morning im gonna replace the break pads in the front, is there anything i should know before doing this?

 

Haven't done pads in a while, but i don't remember anything different that doing it on any other car.

 

one of the easiest things to do on a car imo

 

They are easy to do, I did mine yesterday, 2 bolts for the caliper, lube your bolt pins up and thats about it, same as any car really.. takes about 20 mins... I used Raybestos "PGD623QS" if it matters from pep boys...

Keith

 

Discs are pretty simple, I used performance friction pads.
I have had real good luck with these and they are not too expensive either.

 

Crack open the bleeder before you compress the piston back into the caliper. Otherwise you backflush crap into the system and can put too much pressure on the abs. It's also a good idea to do a complete flush unless your brake fluid is fresh. Hawk HPS's are great street pads. I'm using HP+ now b/c I autocross.

 

good pad from auto zone, i use these too

 

I would go ahead and replace all bolts, pins, and rubber pin sleeves. The rubber pin sleeves are a pain to get out. Lube the pin and rubber sleeve really good with hi-temp silicone paste.

There is a special tool you will need for the front caliper bolts, it will be in the tool section. Sorry, can't remember the size off hand, but I think it is a larger size square socket piece. The tool packaging will refer to it as a disc brake tool.

For the brake fluid, get some quarter inch clear tubing and friend to help flush/bleed the system. It's amazing how much this makes a difference.

I've had good luck with AutoZone parts, Performance Friction Pads & their house-brand "cheapy" rotors. Seriously, the rotors are cheap enough, it's not worth the time/cost/risk of resurfacing, they were like $20 piece. Just pick up some engine paint & clear to coat the hubs.

 

brake, brake, brake


(sorry a pet peeve of mine )

you break your neck. your brakes stop your car

 

How do you flush the brake system ???

It really makes that much of a difference?

 

You will definately want to flush your brakes and it can make a difference. Depends on if and how much air is in the lines currently. The caliper should have a little valve that you open to bleed them...(guys correct me of I'm wrong because its been awhile since I have bled brakes) open that valve pump the brakes a little...just make sure you've got fluid in the master cylinder the first time I ever did it I ran out of fluid and couldn't figure out what the hell was causing just air to come out after a couple mins...I felt like a dumbass...

 

Here is what I do ...

Get a turkey baster and suck out some of the brake fluid in the master cylinder, then refill with new fluid.

If you are going to bleed the ABS unit, do that first. I was in a time crunch when I did my brakes, and couldn't figure out how to bleed the ABS unit off-hand, so I skipped it. EDIT: The ABS bleeders are on the front of the unit, take off the air box to get to them.

Otherwise, bleed rear passenger, then rear driver, front passenger, and last front driver.

Get a 1/4 inch clear hose (2- 3 ft long) to fit over the bleed screw on the caliper. Get a coffee can or oil recycling bin to run the hose over to. Brake fluid is very corrosive. I believe the bleeder screws are 10mm, so you'll need a set of mm wrenches. Open the bleeder about a 1/4 turn, have your friend push the brake pedal and hold it, close the bleeder screw, friend lets off the brake pedal, open bleeder screw, push brake pedal, close bleeder screw, let off brake pedal, ... keep this up until the caliper you are bleeding squirts out clear fluid.

Every 4 or so pumps, check the master cylinder fluid level, filling it back up as needed.

Makes a big difference if your fluid is old & dark. Brake fluid attracts moisture which makes the system not function as effectively over time.

The Ford HD fluid is a good DOT 3 choice. You can pick it up at a Ford dealership for about $3 a can, you will need 3-4 to flush your system and have some left over.