Well I finall got around to bleeding my brakes. I found out that there is no fluid pressure for both reat calipers. Not even a tiny trickle of brake fluid. So I took the rear brake Line off of the abs controller and still no fluid when the brakes are pressed. So I took the two lines going into the abs controller and they both shot out fluid, so my problem lies with the abs controller. I did a little searching on the topic and found that there is a proportioning valve that could be closed which is giving me my problems. I also read that if you press the pedal really hard it should reset it. Well I tryed that and nomatter how hard I tryed nothing.

So my Question is How can I reset the proportioning valve??? Do I have to take apart the abs controller or is there another trick to it???

 

I had the exact same issue....

Usually problems like that are caused by a bad proportioning valve. It's attached to the ABS system. The proportioning valve is located on it. THe valve is like a 189.00 Piece. I just took the abs unit apart and pulled the modulator out. I cleaned the Modulator/valve thoroughly and flushed the flow channels out. I took the proportioning valve apart...and the problem was a bad washer. THere's a spring with a float that has a washer around it that conrolls what ever the hell in the unit. Didn't make sense to pay 189.00 on the fault of a washer...so I just went to AZ and found a relpacement similar kind of washer. Solved the problem for me. You also might want to check to see if your master cylinder is bad.

 

The master cylinder is good I made sure there was fluid comming out of both lines.

Hey heatmaker how hard was it to take apart the abs unit???? do you need anything special to do it or just some basic tools?

 

Here is the best I can do for you:

94 Service Manual:

"The motor rehome function is initiated by pressing the F5 key on Tech 1..... The motor rehome function must ALWAYS be used prior to bleeding the system."

W/O Tech 1

Do NOT put foot on brake unless specifically instructed to do so.

1. Remove foot from brake pedal.
2. Start engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS inop lamp.
3. The light should be on for about 3 secnonds and turn OFF and stay OFF. Let run 10+ secs. TURN IGNITION OFF. NO TOUCHY BRAKE PEDAL
4. If the light came on after 10 seconds you need to fix the ABS prob first.
5. Repeat step 1-4 a second time.

Bleeding should now be possible. So it says

Next you fully bleed the ABS modulator through the 2 bleeders on the unit (near rad side). After clear new fluid is in master cyl res and coming out the modulator, you can tighten it up and bleed the rear (right first), then front (right first).

Good Luck
Sean

 

Just Baisic tools...but you will need an O clip remover. To take the ABS unit apart. It was pretty simple Just keep track of the gears and how they were aligned when you put it back together. I also forgot to mention you can also inspect the washer, Float, and spring setup if you just pull the Proportioning valve out all the way. The entire assembly will spring out. It's a good way to check the condition of the washer. But... you can't really inspect the enitre valve unit that way. It's best to just take it apart. Had it out and apart in 20 minutes. I used parts cleaner and cleaned all the pieces up really nice. I had taken my car to two different dealerships and they couldn't bleed the rear's no pressure at all. They both pointed fingers at the Proportioning valve. After I took it apart, cleaned it, I replaced the washers. I dunno what happend but the washer that's on the Float had expanded (or what ever rubber does) and became stuck in the valve. So the Float wasn't floating anymore it was suck in place. I went to the dealer to get the replacement float washer...but the guy told me that it's not sold seperately. It only comes with a new unit. I just took the float to AZ and put an O-ring washer on it. My problem was solved. Even though your problem may be different. Inspecting the Modulator/Propotioning Valve is a good place to start. It's an annoying task though because in order to get to the proportining valve you have to take the ABS unit apart.

Also what kind of bleeders do you have on your brakes?

 

I bleed the brakes with a clear hose and someone pressing the brakes while I open and close the bleeder screw. Well I think I am gonna tackle I tommorow morning, I would rather fix it myself then buy a new one. They are expensive. Thanks for the help, Ill let you know how it goes

 

Well I took out the ABS unit and decided to take it apart. I found that the gear controlling the valve for the rear brakes slipped off the motor gear because the nut holding it on fell off. Which is why I got the rear motor free spinns code and it fell off when the valve was closed and that is why I was gettin no rear brakes and why the brake light came on. It works great now!

Thanks to heatmaker for all the help