hey guys, i was wondering how hard it is to install new rear brake pads. i just got qouted 130 bucks idk if that is good or bad? should i take the chances of doing them myself or pay someone else to do it? any hints or tips would greatly be appreciated....steps too idk?

thanks
andrew

 

do it yourself, take the back wheels off and its pretty much self explanitory

 

Probably one of the easiest jobs you can do. Make sure you clean and regrease the slide pins and check them for wear. If they are worn, they can be purchased at the part store. Make sure the wear indicator (squeeler) is on the inboard side at the bottom when you mount the new pads.

How many miles on the rotors?

 

i have 86K on my car but i don't know when the last brake service was done on it. i bought the car with 74k on it and i'm the 3 owner. does anyone have a recomendations on brands? or does it really matter i'd like to go with something that doesn't create a lot of dust.

thanks
andrew

 

autozone has a good pad performance friction pads 45 bucks for the front and a little more for the backs, good pad for the money and a life time warrenty on them to

 

Changing rear pads is not at all difficult and the pads should be $35-45 at most parts chains. You can pay a lot more for high performance pads, but that's not necessary for a street car. My last set of rear pads were $35 at Advance Auto. Also, get a disk brake tool at Sears to compress the piston so that you can put the new pads in.

Take the rear wheel off. Then you need two wrenches -- one to turn the top caliper bolt (which is on the inboard side and is a 15mm I think) and one to hold the pin from rotating (you'll see this start to turn if you turn the outside bolt without holding it -- a 17mm open end wrench is what you need). Take that bolt all the way out and then pry open the caliper. It may take a slight tap with a mallet to get it open, but probably not. When you take out the old pads, note their orientation and where the tab indicator is (on the inside pad). Then with the pads out and the caliper swung open, use your brake compressor tool to push the piston all the way inside the bore until it won't go anymore. Do not touch the brake pedal when the pads are out!!! Then reinsert the new pads into the caliper (the part that didn't move, not the swinging part) so that the tabs on the ends of the pads align with the slots in the caliper (you'll understand when you look at it). Then close the caliper up and retighten that bolt using the same wrenches. I don't know the exact torque spec, but getting tight with a short box end wrench is generally enough. It should be around 30 ft/lbs, or a 1/3 as tight as your wheel lugs. Don't kill it. That should be about it. Make sure you press the brake pedal a few times before driving the car so that you have brakes the first time you go to use them (takes up the slack between the piston, pad and rotor). Also, take a look at your rotors while it's apart to make sure that nothing looks cracked, scored, etc. Finally, take a look in the master cylinder under the hood to make sure that your fluid is at the right level. If it has been topped off as the pads wore, you may find it overflowing. If so, clean up the mess because brake fluid removes paint!

If anyone thinks I misdescribed anything, please correct me.

 

hey thanks for the help. are the fronts as easy as the rear?

 

They are identical.

 

Oh, so the front are identical to the rear? Excellent, the front was so easy Just changed the rotor yesterday.

Edit: I took apart my front calipers with only one wrench.. I didn't need two.. oh well... the pin torque specs are 38 ft-lbs by the way if you want to pu tthem back in properly.. however couple pounds with the palm of your hand (no more) should be pretty damn close. Oh, and make sure you put the pins back in straight! If your putting them back in and after only a couple turns they're tight, then your putting them in crooked. Wind it back out and realign your caliper and try again, they shouldn't get tight very fast. And you may notice that one of the pins will go in and then they other just wont catch.. well then almost for sure the caliper isn't completly over the little lip it has there and the holes aren't striaght. Just give it a wack or two and it should go back into place.

Also you should clean up the pins with a wire brush and then regrease them (can't remember what the specifc grease is called) there is one that is meant for it.. but it's not to big of a deal. And before you put them back in just take your baby finger and clean out the inside of where they go (just to get any clumps and crap out of there)

well this post was much longer than I had expected lol it's simple don't worry

 

what is this pin? all i did on my rears was open them up let the caliper fall down then i replaced the pads...i didn't see any pins or grease anywhere, real clean and simple. and i saved myself a lotta money by doin it myself. thanks for the help guys i love this board!

 

identical proceedure. if you had rear brakes up front or fronts in the rear you might have a problem

 

does anyone else need an allen wrench to get the calipers down? i just looked at them today and tried to get it loose but those things are in tight! lookin for any suggestions only 18 trying to save a buck or two

 

Anyone ever have the rear parking break spring pop off? Getting it on agains a b!tch! Gm's got some special tool just to put it on =P