We weren't able to use the heat shield that covers the brake lines on the drivers' side inner fenderwell after installing the new headers. The headers leave NO clearance to slide it into position. It's that tight in there.

As a quick fix, I slid a DEI 8" wire shield in and tied it around the brake lines, attempting to make a barrier at least between the lines and the closest primary tube (it is REALLY close).

Is this going to be a problem? I'm thinking I'm going to order some Thermo-tec blanket material and try to rig it in there somehow. Yea? Nay?

 

I had the same problem when I installed my Hooker LT's. I ended up cutting the heat shield back to where it cleared the headers and wrapping the brake lines with fiberglass and heat shield tape just like you did. The line that was really close was the one going to the rear brakes. I tried bending it in place, but it still rubbed slightly on the #1 primary tube. I ran that way for a couple of years with no apparent problem. Finally, when I pulled the engine out last year, I removed that line from the ABS and rebent it so that it now clears the #1 primary by about an inch.

Chris

 

Mine was very close as well with the Hooker LTs. I pulled the shield and massaged it with a hammer and wrapped the brake line with heat tape and then reinstalled the heat shield.

 

When i installed the Hooker LT's the 1st primary rubbed against the actual brake line.... about 3 months later the LTs made a hole in the brake line.... Kinda scary!!! was going to stop at a STOP sign when the brake pedal fell all the way down and Brake light came on.... that was a scary experience

 

Fuuuuuuuuuuuck that.

*Calls Summit in the middle of the night and orders a blanket*



Thanks for all the comments guys.

 

I have Hooker LTs and was able to keep the heat shield in place. I just took a pry bar and bent the shield so it no longer touched the headers but still left an air gap. Also have poly motor mounts installed so its possible they give me a little extra clearance too.

 

Remove the shield completely.
You can then bend the rear brake line downward and rearward and away from the header very easily. The fronts are not an issue.
The header will still be close to the plastic loom but I have not detected any heat damage on my car at all. You can always get some heat shield cloth for concerned areas.

 

Can I do this by hand without disconnecting the line... Or do I need to take it off the car and use a tool to bend them?

 

if you can reach them, yes, just pull them gently

 

Yes you can bend it with everything connected.
I can bend the line away from the header faster than you could chug two beers.

 

Nate: Bend the line at least 1.5"+ away from the header line, in addition to wrapping it. You don't need a tool to bend the line, but you do need to bend it carefully, as to not "kink" the line.

Keep this in mind: The brake line doesn't have to touch the header to be melted by it.

Ryan

 

Most definitely. I was deeply disturbed by the distance when I saw it.


I drove the car to the exhaust shop today to get the exhaust finished, and that's it. It's not going anywhere else now until this is resolved.

 

Does there need to be an air gap? Because it's looking like it's going to be a stretch to get as much as I can, if any.

I'm planning on just bending the lines as much as I can (or as much as possible) and covering the lines with Thermo-tec blanket material. I'm not sure if there's going to be too much of an air gap though.