Should I keep pouring $$ into my 96Z or get a 99 or 00 SS?

I've been drooling over the LS1s lately... cars are getting faster around here and I don't want to throw a fortune into support mods just so my shiznit won't blow up.

 

Ahh... It would be cool if I could balance out the weight distribution better -- maybe that would add a lil fun back into driving it.

 

You think an aluminum block is going to handle more than an iron block? Think "supporting" the power on the LT1 is costly...

That aside...what's the price difference in spending more on your LT1 vs buying a more expensive LS1 and modding it? That should be your main objective, determining which is the better outcome.

Also...gut your LT1 some. Big advantage of LS1 is front end weight. I've got a friend who's LT1 weighs less than an LS1 with him in it on a full tank...and he's around 200 lbs! Basically, he's got a driver's seat and a shifter...lol, I wouldn't go that far though.

DJ

 

Hmmm... what could I strip/replace off the front end that would get me something noticeable?

I don't want to take out stuff like the AC or radio...

What if I just take out the whole motor and roll my car down a hill?

 

LOL...that'd be one big hill!

I'm not sure man. My friend got **** on his car weight. I'm talking EVERYTHING. Console, seat belts (except drivers), stereo, speakers, tons of ****.

Anti-sway bar, spare and jack, relocate the batter to the rear, while I wouldn't suggest it on a daily driver, you could remove bumper supports. Run a lighter wheel and skinnies...my friend runs 15x6 Welds up front with like 215/50s (I'm gonna do this).

I"m not gonna strip mine just yet since it's my daily driver, but I'm sure there are some folks here who've done some gutting.

DJ

 

What's with these tubular K members that supposedly take 60lbs off the stock weight? I could also go for lighter pulleys, alternator, water pump, etc... whenever their times come (hopefully soon... 44k miles and counting!) .


Ah screw it... if I try to get into 11s, my rear end will be the first civilian object to reach Mars. I'll just trot along w/ my LT1 and save my $$ for later.

 

MOD it. For now CAI and Hooker LT's will do nicely. But save up and build the engine. LS1's are very expensive to modify and unless you get a 00 or newer they can't take an overbore anymore than .020 so the early LS1's are NOT a good choice to build. You could port the heads, get a bigger cam and modify the rest of the valvetrain and easily get over 400hp. But LT1's are cheaper and much more flexible to mod. Plus the block is iron.

Jason

 

K members ain't cheap...lol, but that's some weight reduction. You saying you only have 44K miles on your car? Dude...aside from the opti...ain't nothing gonna go wrong anytime soon...lol.

I've got 155K and have never replaced anything except an opti/water pump (115K miles), clutch and clutch master/slave cylinder (149K miles). Still on factory Alternator! These cars are built to last if you treat them right.

Yep...11s and you'll need a new rear.

DJ

 

Ahhh thanks for answering my questions... I'll definately keep it now! Here's what I'm planning on buying as of now.

Arizona Speed & Marine or Moroso CAI, ported MAS housing, hypertech programmer, 3.73s, thunder racing remanufactured 52mm throttle body, hooker LTs, cutout. I'll also throw on front/rear backouts, stripes, tints, and a small system since I've only got the stock Bose.

I'll port my heads/intake manifold later on if I feel the need and/or have the money.

WoohoO!

 

I think, with proper launching, you could handle that. THe problem with M6s and rear ends is the SHOCK. Autos allow the rear to load...where as, us M6ers, we basically SHOCK the rear end to life. 3.73s would be good, a little more life span on the stock rear than going with a 4.10.

Again, same friend I'm talking about gutting his car...he won the GMHTP LT1 Bolt On shoot out, shortys, RRs, exhaust and weight loss...12.42s. Best ET 12.34. That was with an M6 and stock rear. And, I can tell ya, this boy can drive like a ****** ****ER!!

So...in all reality, you could reach your goal on the stock rear if your trips to the strip weren't weekly with multiple passes and you really nail your launches. But...driver ability/handling in an M6 can have great effects on those stock rears.

DJ

 

lt1's are the thing to have...

u need something to keep motivating u to mod and make the car better so we canbeat then ls1's

 

I loved my LT1 but I finally bit the bullet and got a LS1. I'm never looking back. LT1 was more fun to mod, but the LS1 there really isn't as much of a need. IMO

 

Both LT1's and LS1's are awesome platforms to build on. An LT1 guy I know made 302 rwhp with just long tubes, catback and a CC306 cam with no tuning and a failing optispark.

Unless you're after mondo numbers (600+ rwhp) the LT1 can get there just as easily as an LS1. Another guy I know runs a Nutek 383 with a Procharger blower and an ice box intake. He puts down 500 rwhp at 6psi and is going to go to 9psi and probably put down 550ish rwhp. With the LS1 you still get the poop worthy rear end anyway. With good ported heads, agressive cam, valvetrain job and basic boltons with a good tune you can easily make 370-380rwhp. That can be supported by the stock clutch and rear end. Still want more power? Do a soft 383 rebuild at the same time and you should be pushing 400+ rwhp.

True to get those high 500+ rwhp numbers on an LT1 you need to get a serious blower engine, but it's pretty much the same for LS1's and I doubt you'll want to make that much power. I know a blown T/a with heads, cam and LT's putting down 440 rwhp. Another one putting down 420rwhp with LT's, heads and cam. In the end it's all about equal.

Alex

 

Do you want this to be a drag car or a street car? Anything over 450rwhp is pretty much useless on the street; the traction just isn't there unless you run slicks all the time. My neighbor has a 600rwhp 86 GN and dude, he can be rolling along at 70mph, yank the TH-350 back into 2nd, and BURN RUBBER to well over 100mph on street tires. Hell, even with slicks, traction under 20mph is just a fond memory. It's too scary to even enjoy. But the cool thing is both the LT1 and the LS1 can reach 400+rwhp with relative ease and still be daily drivable.

IMO, if you're budget limited like myself just keep the LT1. Parts, insurance and taxes are A LOT cheaper. A 383 isn't too unreasonable, a set of 195cc AFRs can be had for around $2K (these will support more power than you can use anyway, especially if you go power adder), and many other little things will add up in the end. Just start modding and roll with the punches.

GM did an excellent job with both engines(except for the opti$#it). With either one, you'll have a crappy rear-end to deal with and/or the 4L60E (4L65E for the 00+).

 

As noted.. if you go fast in anything you'll likely need an aftermarket rear.

If your goal is to be faster than everyone else, stick with what you have. If money isn't an issue for you, then the LS1 will make sick power NA on a stock bottom.. 455-475rwhp .