Just installed the BMR torque arm and it hits "big time" on the body of the car near the nose of the rear where the torque arm bolts on. Did anyone else have these issues installing the BMR? Did you simply take a hammer to the underside of the car and make clearance?

Thanks,

Loren

 

OK, tried the hammer...no way that is going to provide enough clearance.

 

Thats one of the reasons I am taking my prokit off this weekend. going back to stock. either take the springs off or return the torque arm one or the other.

 

my spohn tq arm hit in my 3rd gen (sport line springs) But it hit in the rear where it bolts to the rear end I had to beat it up some to clear. You might try a tq arm that dont use the trans as a holding point.

 

Do you guys know of anyone that makes a torque arm that will work on my setup? I like the looks and handling of my car with it lowered and want to keep it that way. Problem is...I keep bending factory torque arms...been through two now!

 

The problem with the stock tq arms and moser rearends is the bolts come loose... You could keep the stocker on it just put lock tight on the bolts and make sure they get tight. I have been threw the same thing as you. I would go to the auto cross section and ask the guys over there what tq arm they are running with cars lowered 2"... Good Luck

Sean

 

Sean,

I know what you mean. That is how my forst torque arm failed...ripped through at the bolt holes. After that, I installed the replaceent torque arm with locktited bolts. Now, that torque arm is bent. Didn't bend or tear at the bolt holes. The whole torque arm is bowed like a banana.

Loren

 

I have heard on the v-6 cars the tq arms are stonger they dont have all the wholes cut out in them atleast on 3rd gens... So that might be a problem there but it dont seem to affect the guys running 10 bolts. My 95 TA pulls 1.63 60ft times on the stock tq arm and 10 bolt without any problems so far. and my 305 Camaro has problems with the 12 bolt. Only thing I can think of is the xtra weight of the 12 bolt Throws more weight at the tq arm causing it to bend when banging the gears. I am out of idea's as far as what tq arm to go with.. Only one I have ever used is the spohn.. It sounds like you have a really nice setup and the tq arm is your last mod for suspesion. Find one that will clear with being lowered and good luck on it..

Sean

 

Sean,

Thanks for all the comments. I guess, if all else fails, I can just replace the stock one every so often...

Loren

 

As a follow up just to let everyone know the BMR torque arm will work with a lowered setup and Moser 12 bolt. I had to ding the heck out of the driveshaft tunnel near the nose of the rear and I also installed a Spohn adjustable panhard rod to center the rear. The rear was shifted 0.20 to the driver side caused by lowering. After modifying (hammering) the tunnel and centering the rear, there is plenty of clearance. I set the pinion angle at 2 degrees negative and the car is smooth as silk all the way to 150mph...stopped there cause I was coming up on a car. Oh, btw, road test was done early morning with no other cars around except the one I came up on and had to slow down for. The panhard rod and torque arm were money well spent!

 

I have the same setup (Moser 12 bolt, Eibach 2" sportlines, BMR torque arm), and my driveline shop just chased down this vibration problem I'd been having to the torque arm contacting the tunnel at high speed. The lack of clearance also caused the rear to be shifted (off-center) under the car. They're suggesting having a shop cut out part of the tunnel and weld in a "pocket" for clearance. Sounds effective but expensive. Maybe I'll see if they have a hammer... . At least they figured it out, this vibration has been driving me nuts for a month.