I sure there are many other posts about this but i cant seem to find them.
I recently bought 8 new Bosch Platinum Fusion Iridium Spark Plugs, and a new set of Duralast Spark Plug wires.
Now im facing the real dilemma, Haynes repair manual doesnt do a good job explaining exactly how to install the plugs on a 96 LT1. Its those dang exhaust manifolds that are bothering me, ive heard stories from my friend before he got his vette, how he would slave for hours just to get the plugs on by removing the exhaust manifolds. the driver side manifold looks do-able to remove, but that passenger side looks like hell. Any helpful tips or instructions on how to get the plugs and wires in the engine any way easier?

And on another note: a while ago i asked about the trouble codes:0171,0174. I fixed the problem i got my old MAF back and put it back on and the engine didnt bounce up and down the rpm line and rpms were a bit lower: roughly 50-150 rpms less then when i had the newer MAF on.

 

well If your going to take off the manifolds, it would be a good time to upgrade to headers. You would be improving access at the same time, for future plug changes depending on the type of header you get.

If your not going to change to headers I would for sure take back the bosch iridiums, and go with different plug. I would put in a NGK iridium before bosch, as I have heard only bad things about our motors and bosch plugs. I am sure they will work, but as much of a pain in the *** as it is, why not put in a better suited plug.

Learning to change the plugs on my camaro back when it was new, taught me a that I can get my hands into places I thought would have been impossible. (and I have big hands)

 

you can do it without taking the manifolds off, its not that hard even with big hands, that driverside is a mix of some ontop and some on bottom(your position in reference to the car as you install the plugs). The passenger is a pain. Remove the alternator and things will be MUCH smoother, still rough, but smoother.

 

I would, if my friend with the vette would let me purchase his from his wrecked camaro, but he wants to sell them in a package deal with his exhaust, which i do not need (already have a vette style exhuast on my camaro) still trying to convince him.

Why is that? I got the bosch because they have a rebate of 2 dollars off per plug. does NGK have a set of 8 iridiums for under $70? and if i am able to get the headers, should the bosches be fine?

 

Don't feel bad, plugs on our stock cars is not an easy task, especially if you have AC + other options on the car. Its even worse if the wires were run poorly by the previous owner.

After doing them twice with manifolds (it was much easier the 2nd time, but still not an "easy" task), i ended up putting headers on

Tips:
-Mechanics Gloves will save you many scraped knuckles
-Helper to hand you tools + beer
-You may want to remove the alternator to make room for when you do the wires.
-An assortment of different wrenches, sockets, adaptors + extensions
-You may want to cut your old wires to remove them if theyre jammed behind the accessory bracket(mine were).
-Jack the car up to get at some plugs from Below.
-TAKE BREAKS! More than a few times would i try for an hour on 1 plug, walk away, then come back to try it 15 minutes later and finally get it within the first minute of retrying it
-Lay across the engine if you need to

Unfortunatly the thing thats really is the biggest help is doing it a 2nd time.

 

You can do it with the manifolds on. Some things to remove that will make your live easier:

- accessor drive belt & tensioner
- alternator
- starter

If you want even more room you can drop the exhaust system up front but this can be a pain if the studs are really rusty.

 

Because they're over-rated. NGK TR55's are very popular and shouldnt
be more than $20-30. As others have said, plug swap isnt that big
of a deal (the first time always seems like a PITA).

 

don't take those manifolds off no way, your most likely going to break a stud, or HAVE to break off the studs that connect the manifold to the downpipe/cat. you can get them with some manuvering and strange hand positions from the top and bottom.

 

I just did plugs/wires this weekend. I have Edelbrock shorties which may improve access a bit but it still sucks. Driver side is cake but passenger side took me at least 6 hrs. #6 was 2.5 hrs of that. Hopefully you can do better.

Like these guys said take stuff off to improve access. Just remove the alternator from the get go to make getting to # 2 much easier. #6 and #8 were much easier after dropping the y-pipe a bit and getting the starter out of the way.

I had to buy a 5/8" offset wrench. I could not have done mine without this tool. Just no room on some to get a socket on, let alone a socket and ratchet.

Use anti-sieze on your plugs. If you do this again you will thank yourself.

 

+1 for getting NGK's

 

I also have Edelbrocks and I can do the driver side in about 15 mins.
Pas side in about 45 mins.
With the stock manifolds toke about 3 hours to do both sides.
Just take your time and get some NGK TR 55

 

Ummm... what is a "vette style" exhaust? True duals?


Anyways, you do not need to remove the exhaust manifolds to do plugs and wires on your LT1. Have you tried from underneath the car? When my car had stock manifolds I could do plugs and wires in under 30 minutes.

 

Please tell me your tricks for passenger side. What tools?

 

Always remember, when you get to a point where you can't fit the plug socket and a ratchet you always have the option of using a regualr box wrench on the nut shaped end of the plug socket giving and extra inch or so. I do this a lot and it has saved me a ton of time when nothing else works.

 

Thats the route I go, a stubby wrench and the nut end of the spark plug socket. Makes removal/install a snap.