Well guys I have come to a point in my modding where I have alot of different roads to choose. I have pretty much all the big bolt on mods done and I am wondering where to head next? I have a lot of potential Christmas presents to ask for...

I know alot of you have been at this point in modding, you've got the catback, CAI, and Headers, but now what?

1. N2O?
2. H/C or Cam package?
3. Stall/Gears/DR?
4. Suspension?
5. Wheels/Tires?
6. Appearance?

I have a moderate budget, so a complete rebuild with 50k on the clock isnt one of my options. I use my car as a daily driver, I enjoy having fun driving my car mostly on the street.

What would you do or have you done is this situation?

-Dustin-

 

Next thing I'm personally doing is wheels/tires. I would've saved for nitrous, but over the winter it wouldn't be any fun to have something you can't use much cuz the weather here sucks. So I'll pick up a nice set of wheels and tires when I save enough. That's my vote.

-J

 

Thanks, not to mention wheels and tires help out handling alot too. I wouldnt mind having some nice SS wheels or TT2's. I wont do wheels till winter is over, I dont want to salt them up.

-Dustin-

 

I really wouldn't do anything until winter being over.

 

I think it depends on the ultimate goal for your car. If you think you may ever go mostly race car I would dive into the suspension. lca's, sfc's, phr If you do it now one you add nitrous or heads/cam you will benifit so much more.

 

My biggest goal right now is essentially a daily driven street car, that is fast enough to hold its own against the C6/Z06 Vettes. I would also be happy taking mildly modded LS1 Vettes and F-bodies. It needs to be street friendly since I have an Auto and do a decent amount of driving. That is why Nitrous is such an attractive option, giving me the edge when I need it, but not the terrible gas mileage and drivability problems. I only see the track occasionally and usually I have most of my fun on the streets. Hope that helps narrow it down a bit. The only thing that worries me on N2O is safety of the engine. If I go that route I need as much insurance as possible. Thanks fella's.

-Dustin-

 

without diving heavily into the motor at this time I would say strap a 150 shot on it and go. If you want to beat c6/z06's it os going to take more then a 150 shot. you'll probably need suspension, 12 bolt gears, higher stall converter and heads. with a 150 shot and your mods on some dr's I would say you should keep up or beat the 05 vettes. a vigilante stall and a 150 shot will probably do that but once you start to hook the car up you will toast the 10 bolt. I kinda screwed around with my car and said I wanted it more for street until I got to the track and was getting beat. now I am going to 90% race 10% street. If you can ever see yourself doing this then I would advise suspension, 9 inch.............the works

I ran a 150-200 shot on my motor for 3 years without breaking it, comepletly stock. If you keep it tuned, right plugs and don't spray everyday it will last you a long time

adam

 

Thanks alot for the advice. If it helps at all I beat a 2000+ Ford Lightning from a roll that said he usually beats C5 Vettes. That was with LT's/CAI/Catback and a huge exhaust leak, as in the 2 3/4" I pipe just set into the 3" Y pipe collector. I hope to be close to a stock LS1 Z/Vette with just my bolt on's all tight and a good tune. I would only spray to even the score, not an everyday thing.

-Dustin-

 

A couple of things you might want to consider.... your automatic is kind of a thorn in your side until you have it worked. If you add much more torque over bolt-on #s, especially with nitrous spraying through the shifts, your A4 will be living on borrowed time. Better clutches, band, and newer style (13 vane) or modified stock pump are what it really needs. The stock pump in the 60 tends to run out of steam at around 5200rpm, so even with a totally stock car you kinda punish it just by running the engine up to redline (thank you GM for putting an inadequately prepped automatic in these cars). I've talked to a few transmission builders and all said the same thing about the 4l60... the stock pump is one of the main reasons the trans has problems when you beat on it, especially with more power than stock. An automatic just can't function or last without an adequte supply of fluid. It's kinda hit-or-miss. There's been a few members here with good luck, but if you search around you'll see that most start having problems with the trans after putting a lot more power through it (by N2O or FI) or running more rpm with larger cams (or H/C combos). And then there's some who've had their's rebuilt 4 or 5 times in a matter of months or a couple of years, and i strongly suspect it's due to the builder not upgrading the pump.

When faced with your situation, i converted to the T56. I wanted the fun factor of it and also it's tough reputation for the mods i had planned (which in my case, didn't work out). Not saying you should do this, it's just the route i took. And now that i have the auto back in it, all power mods are put on hold until i get that M6 rebuilt and put back in it. (side note: this crap with the M6 has me so pissed that i'm seriously considering selling the damn thing as-is and having my auto built. But that's kinda far off... gotta see how much it's gonna cost to fix the M6 first)

After all this, i'd suggest you stick to suspension and other mods for the time being (maybe a higher stall TC, gears, and DEFINITELY a trans cooler), until your trans is beefed up some. i know you'd hate to spend the money to do N2O or H/C and enjoy the power just to have your auto crap out on you... more $$$ spent. And it might cost you less to have it built while it's still in good working order rather than waiting for it to blow up and ruin a lot of good parts in it... which will cost you more since you'll have to buy those parts. JMHO

 

Thank you for all the very informative information you have provided. I think it would be the best direction to work on wheels and tires for traction. Along the lines of some nice 17" wheels (probably new or old style SS) with a street friendly, yet gripping rubber. Of course some SFC and LCA for the suspenion side. Then move to some 3.73's and perhaps later a stall. I feel that I have plenty of power for the moment, but I know for sure I dont have enough traction. I also feel that the car doesnt get off the line quick enough, so the 3.73's would help getting my heavy Z moving quick. Gears along with the better traction I feel will make for a more deadly street machine. Not to mention the happy SOTP feelings I would get. The 3.73 wouldnt hinder my 1 gear ratio to bad would it? Suggestions? Testimonies?

I think I'll keep away from huge power gains until I can get the T56 I have been wanting. Or a rebuild, but the T56 ratios are so nice for the highway driving I do.

Thinking a bit futher, would a stall be a better move than the 3.73's since I already have the 3.23's?

-Dustin-

 

why not just get both a stall and 3.73's

 

I also vote for a stall, gears, DR's.

 

stall, gears, drags will net you the best bang for your buck. Then h/c/i

 

Well money being the limiting factor here, but I think I'll eventually have all three. Of course tranny cooler also.

-Dustin-

 

If I had your car...

I would get/do in the following order...

A tranny cooler for obvious reasons.
While the car is up putting the cooler in, make a homemade ram air kit..the little scoop thingy.
A pulley set also while your under the car.
Maybe also an LS1 driveshaft while the car is up...
Maybe also a electric waterpump?

You'll have under $100 for three things above not including the ds...around $225 with the ds...that is what they cost...and what I am selling mine for..cough..cough..ahem...add another $100-$125 for the electric wp if you can get a used one.

A set of 1.6 roller rockers...cheap and they do work.
While the valve covers are off, but a breather on the passenger side.

You'll have around $225-$325 depending on what rr's you go with above.

Then I would look into getting around a 2800-3000 stall tq.
I would also get as already mentioned, some dr's...I would only get for the a 16" stock rim only BFG DR's....way to many fast cars running these tires IMO.

I personally think gears on a stock cammed, minor bolt-on cars are a waste. You would be surprised how many fast stock geared cars are floating around.

The stall and tires should cost you between $400-$700 depending on if you can get some used goods.

Then get the car on a dyno and log what it is making timing wise and AFR. $65 for the tune the logging for free if you know the right people...ahem...

Get a custom tune. $50-$100..

Pull out whatever you don't need weight wise...logical right?

Be surprised how quick you can get your car doing this.