I have to remove my exhaust manifolds on my '93 Formula, because I busted off 3 out of 6 studs, trying to get the stock Y-pipe off. What's the best way to do this? I learned my lesson when it took me 8 hours to change plugs, it's better to ask than to beat my head against the wall.

 

Soak all the bolts/studs in WD40 for a few hours. Tap them all with a hammer lightly.

Then remove.

You have to remove the alternator, dipstick, and starter motor in some cases.

 

I concur The bolts are relatively easy to get to.

 

Mine actually came off without any problem. All the bolts came off like the bolts have been off before but they were not. Very easy if you ask me. Have fun. By the way I did use a cut in half wrench for more swing.

 

If you have air tools, it will make your life much, much easier. Definitely soak all of the bolts beforehand with WD40 or ???? I can't remember the name of the other stuff. There is some stuff that you can get at Wal-Mart and auto parts stores that supposed to work wonders on rusted bolts. I haven't used it but I've heard several people talk about it. Someone help me out here.

 

Liquid wrench, is the name of the stuff I used. I soaked them the night before as well as the air tube fittings. They all came out without any trouble.

 

Or PB Blaster. I had the RH one off and did not have any trouble with the bolts (even without penetrant).

 

another good penetrator(sp?) is this stuff called Alum A lube, in black and yellow spray can works wonders for just about anything rusted or squeaking

 

Aero Kroil is without a doubt the best penetrating lubricant ever made. It can squeeze into holes a millionth of an inch in size. When doing the headers on a friend's car.. we used aero kroil on the bolts the day before.. when we pulled out the bolts the aero kroil had soaked halfway down the bolt threads.

 

I prelubed the bolts tonight with Thrust (It works good on rusted snowplow parts), and took one out. It seemed like it had, for lack of a better term, teflon paste on it as I took it out. There wasn't anything on the bolts, so it might have been corrosion. It looks like someone had them off before, because the rear bolt was missing on the odd/left/driver side of the engine. I'm leaving the air tubes in, I'm just removing the hose running to them.

 

ha, after reading the first post to this thread I was going to recommend my favorite penetrant. looks like everyone else beat me to it. Mine is Rust Eater. Simple name but it works great.
never tried PB Blaster or Aero Kroil. Where do you guys get this stuff? I believe PB Blaster was mentioned in one of the last issue of GMHTP. I'd be willing to try these other two if I came across them.

 

And if they're REALLY rusty and even penetrating lube won't work, you can use an oxyacetylene torch. Heat the nuts up until they're bright red (not too hot or you'll melt them). Then let them cool. (duh). Heating them turns the rust into iron oxide and the nuts come right off.

Then replace them with stainless studs, and you'll never have the problem again.

 

The heat of a torch actually does more than affect the rust. It expands the nut so it's a lot easier to remove from the studs. I recommend heat whenever it's available.

 

I have also heard a few old guys say that brake fluid is a good penetrating oil. and almost everybody has an old can of it around that isn't any good. I just use whatever I can find around (WD-40, Liqued wrench, etc.) heat is good too just be careful what's around so you don't hurt something you don't want to.

 

PB Blaster and a breaker bar and socket worked just fine for me.