ACE1252

Take the lines loose at the ABS modulator. Don't forget to take the lines loose from the plastic clips holding them.....I forgot just one and bent the crap out of my lines when I dropped it.

You will have to bleed the system after reconnection. If your ABS system is functioning properly, you should be fine by bleeding them in the normal fashion. You'll do ABS rear, ABS front, RR, LR, RF, LF, ABS Rear, and ABS Front.

I however, am having a terrible time with mine. I'm currently waiting on an adapter from Motive, so I can pressurize the system and bleed them that way.

Wild1

I'm familiar with normal bleeding with the bleeder screws. Either gravity bleeding or by the pump/open valve (2 person) method.

Usually I start from the Pass Rear, Driver Rear, Pass Front, Driver Front. But I'm not familiar with ABS Rear and ABS Front. Is that by energizing the ABS system? How do I do that?

bw_hunter

There are bleeder screws* the ABS unit just like those on the calipers. They bleed the normal way...you don't need to do anything special.I've drained the system completely a couple of times.....throw back to my English car ownership days and found hat the easiest way to bleed these brakes from dry is to simply open the bleeder screws on all calipers, run clean tubing into a jar at each wheel and fill up the master cylinder with brake fluid. Gravity will do most of the work in a few hours if you keep the resevoir full. Close up the bleeders and do a normal bleed...rr, lr, rf, lf and then the ABS unit. Changing the brake fluid every couple of years will keep internal corrosion down to a minimium and the bleeder screws from seizing up.

Wild1

Thanks. I did see one bleeder screw on the side of the ABS. There is only one correct?

The ABS unit and lines will be dry for about a month while the block gets machined.

The rear lines will stay intact, it wouldn't hurt to bleed them anyways. Are they necessary since the front lines will be fully disconnected? My hunch is that air will get into the ABS unit so might as well bleed them all but I don't want to push air to the rear lines... takes forever.

slowZ

i done two last week. easiest way was to take a torch and cut the rad support out and pull it out with.... oh wait your car isn't totaled. never mind out the bottom is easier if its not totaled.

meissen

Bwahahaha as soon as I read "torch" I was ready to click quick reply and be like "OH BABY JESUS NO!" Sorry to hear yours was totalled - hopefully it was just the donor car.

Wild1

Found both bleeder screws on the ABS... guess I didn't look close enough.

I bent the power steering line when dropping the engine. There was a bolt hanging out the side of the passenger side that holds the stabilizer bar bushing. Removed the bracket for the bushing and it cleared.

bqman

Well I didn't read this entire thread but I pulled mine out of my '96Z. It took eight hours to pull out, five to put back in. I pulled it out from the front. Here's how I did it.

Remove the radiator, AC condensor, and belt. Disconnect and remove the AC Comprssor and Power Steering Pump. Disconnect all the wires (there are many) and label them (take pictures too, without them you'll get confused). I left the front pulley bracket on but I advice you to remove that since it gets in the way.

Once the engine mounts are removed (one pin on both sides), pull the engine forward to the front of the engine well. You still won't have all the clearance so you'll have to adjust the cherry picker to lean the engine backwards and pull it out from the front pointing up at about 45 deg. and then lift.

It's tricky, but it can be done. My friend and I did it in one night. Putting it back in is the same, tilt the engine back and lower it while trying to tilt it back to a horizontal position.

This is a very short description of it, but it's mostly the main facts, you'll encounter a number of obstacles and problems while you're doing it. It is however fun as hell and you get a good feeling once it's done.

EastLa

I pulled and reinstalled my LT1 all by myself from the bottom. Remember to put the rear tires up on something like rims or plastic ramps. (be careful using the engine hoist as a lift).

All in all it was a very smooth job. I recommend the swear bucket if you are doing it by yourself

94zgreenmachine

Stick of Dynamite

tonyv

lol when i pulled mine i think the swear jar had more money in than, the money i spent doing the upgrades lol

94Z28KC4-GU5-PO5

why did they have to make these cars so user unfriendly starting with the engine being recessed under the windshield & hard to get to spark plugs & overall a tight fitting engine....... oh well i love my 94 & if i ever got rid of it i might just have to get a 3rd gen or maybe even a corvette

94zgreenmachine

Get a 5th Gen. Lots of room under the hood. The portly pig needs a little work to get going anyhow so at least the motor isn't half under the cowl.

Rich2279

Pulled LT1 out the top, twice. Never again! I say drop the k-member.

Mystery Bird

I have taken these out from the bottom three times now and have never had to bleed the brakes when reconnecting. This is weird I know but when I disconnect the brake lines at the ABS I take ear plugs roll them up and push them in the ends of the lines and the ABS unit to prevent anything from entering. The plugs will expand for a perfect fit. Before I reconnect they come out easy and for some reason I don't have to bleed the system, pedal is right there.