im going to start building a 383. were can i get a complete 383 rotating assembly? i dont want to spend a rediculous amount of money on it. i just want a strong bottom end that can handle a 200 shot of nitrous with about 11:1 compression. oh and how much can i expect to pay a machine shop to machine my block and assemble the bottom end?

 

I think you can peice it together pretty cheap. But Jegs is selling 1 peice rear seal 3.75 stroke cranks (cast steel) right now for just under 200 $. Add a set of their SIR rods 300$, and a set of SRP pistons 500$ and your basic peices come in under 1000$. I buiult my strokers bottom end, including machining for under 2500$ and I had alot of machinework done.

Add 100$ for rings and 100$ for bearings and the rest is machinework. After this put aside 3000 for heads and valvetrain and youre set.

My set-up consists of eagle cast steel crank, eagle SIR rods, and KB pistons (soon to be replaced by SRPs with a 12cc dish). Fed mog bearings and Speed Pro rings. 190 cc ARF heads mildly massaged by me (smoothed bowls and valvejob, also smoothed out CNC job), GM847 cam, 1,6/1.5 rockers,52mm t/b,30# SVO inj.Hooker LTs into mufflex y into 3 inch cat,3000 stall, Factory ram air and, 3.73 rear gears.

In my full weight T/A with only adding Sticky tires to the rear at the track I run consistant 12.00s to 11.9s @ 115 to 116 mph without even trying hard, launching sftly with a 1.7 60 foot and shifting at 6000 rpm (tranny then carries gear up to 6300).

I think with a little more work I could easily knock down mid to low 11s without adding anything drastic to the motor. The car drives nicely around town and knocks down 18 to 20 mpg on the highway (10-12 driving around town).

The cam has a nice lope to it, but is fine at low speeds. I absolutely love the motor and wonder why I didnt build it sooner.

Any questions you have feel free to ask me and I'll give my experience on it.

 

I picked up my bottom end from Scat complete. Got it for right around 1500 shipped (got it through a local dealer). Included 4340 crank, h-beam 5.850 rods, SRP flat-tops, wrist pins, spiro-locks, and a JE branded plasma-moly ring pack. Pretty darn good deal for the quality of parts. I coulda save a bit had I chosen a cast crank (like WS Sick did), but I'm planning on spraying a rather large shot on this bottom end and opted for the 4340 parts.

I'd say choose Eagle, or Scat, and you can't go wrong. Great parts for the bucks. Biggest two items (and most important IMHO) will be to put money into the HEADS and have solid, quality machine work done. Also, be sure and let the machine shop know what you are planning on doing in terms of rings (type of ring). It makes a difference on the finish they put on the bores.

I run just about the exact same setup that WS Sick has except I used home ported LT1 castings. If I had to do it again, I would have opted for better "out of the box" heads and ported from there. (I still run high 11's though ) Remember that the cam needs to match the heads. Get the heads (or nail down a vendor) and THEN call the cam manufacturer. Not the other way around...

Good luck dude. You wont be dissappointed.

Dave C.

 

thanks for your input.
im not planning on changing my head and cam set up and ive been reading alot of posts and it seems that alot of people with 355 and stock cranks are going as fast as people with 383's. so do you think since im keeping my head and cam set up that i should just do a 355 or do you think i would still benifit from a 383?

 

I used Scat 9000 Crank, Scat 4340 Forged I-Beam Rods, and SRP forged pistons.

Shoot Brian @ www.adperformance.com an email for some good prices on that stuff.

My compression with the 16cc dish heads is about 11.2:1.

 

Check the for sale post here. Countrymuzic is selling some parts forged crank for one. I would not build a stroker motor w/a cast crank. Just my 2 cents..

 

Why not?

 

Are you kidding?????

 

Well, I'm running a cast crank in my 383, and the 2 people who worked on my engine had no problem with it either...so no, I'm not kidding.

 

You could run a cast crank. Thats fine, but if I'm going to spend the money to build a stroker I want it to be as strong as possable. Cast crank is only going to put up with so much stress and abuse for so long. Just my 2 cents

 

now that is sort of a toss up, a really good cast crank can be better than a low level forged crank.

 

im interested in that question also. and a forged bottom end 355 will run pretty decent with a 200 shot huh?

 

My freind built a nice 355 with a SCAT cast steel crank, forged 5140 I beam Eagle rods and JE forged pistons, with stock ported heads and a Comp cams nitrous cam (224/236) he runs low 12s off the bottle and punishes the motor on a 200 shot , no complaints from the CAST steel crank.

On the street my 383 in a heavier car lays waste to him from any speed off the bottle. Low speeds are not even funny, I immediately walk away from him (with traction).

The 383 is definately worth it.

 

383ci + AFR heads
Vs 355ci with stock heads....thats not to hard to figure out

 

Stock Ported heads, and I know its not hard to figure out but the question is asked alot.