LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Best 383 Crank?

Old Feb 27, 2004 | 10:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally posted by 2MCHPSI
Whats your reasoning otherwise?

I have never personally used Callies, but from who i trust they say Callies is damn good.

Now for my personal experiences, which are not much, but my machine shop thinks the same way as I do.

I put together a 381 with a Lunati crank.. It did not take much malloy at all to internally balance. The counter balances were not huge and the stock oil pan fit WITHOUT any beating. Great quality piece.

My coworker built a Cola crank 383 (also LT1) and the counterbalancer were bigger and it needed a lot of malory to balance.. Oil pan needed serious adjustments AKA beat the hell out of it with a hammer It had front seal issues which we suspect was bad machining on the crank.. That front seal always leaked.

The worst was the Eagle crank that I built on my 1994 Z-28.. I would take a comparable SCAT crank over an Eagle any day of the week. That crank was a PITA. But worked well all said and done.

None of the cranks broke or had strength problems, or even considered bad, but the quality seemed better with Lunati.. That is why my machine shop also seems to love their crank kits. My limited expierences matches their extensive experience..

I am sure everyoen has their favorite cranks ect, but I sure as hell will pick Lunati over Cola from what I have seen, heard ect.
That is some good reasoning. Personally, I paid 750 for my Cola Crank and put over 800 motor hp and have never had issues with it. A Lunati is about twice the price and there are no performance gains by going to it. The only time people will see a gain with cranks is if one they are light or if someone has a machine shop knife edge it. You are correct in saying to go with what your machine likes. People have different theories behind different brands.
Old May 20, 2004 | 06:57 PM
  #17  
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So the order in preference is callies>lunati>cola

Im thinking of getting a lunati since the callies is unavailable for 5 weeks.
Old May 20, 2004 | 07:17 PM
  #18  
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From the cranks I have seen and measured which is most of the ones talked about in this thread, I'm anti-Lunati but that's just me and the politics they played over the last few years with teh bussiness. Every forged Scat crank I have ever seen is on par with a Callies Dragonslayer.

God I wish you guys were out racing cirlce track cars, those guys want the cheapest motor that makes more power than anyone on the track and you guys want to spend more money on a part than you need to. In circumstances like circle track racing more expensive cranks, pistons and rods mean lighter parts that make the car faster where on a street car more head, more boost or less driveable will probably get you even more power.

Bret
Old May 20, 2004 | 07:20 PM
  #19  
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I guess that if I want to go away from chinese steel will be waiting for callies

Besides I dont want a magnum callies crank
Old May 20, 2004 | 09:23 PM
  #20  
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God I wish you guys were out racing cirlce track cars
Hey now, a stroker crank in a circle track car??

I used to help in the Late Model division, and the cheaper Grand Stock. I built a couple of cheap motors that turned 6800 all year long.. using just liek you said, cheap parts.

Every forged Scat crank I have ever seen is on par with a Callies Dragonslayer.
Scat seems to be a decent crank for sure.

Last edited by 2MCHPSI; May 20, 2004 at 09:25 PM.
Old May 21, 2004 | 12:31 AM
  #21  
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Originally posted by 2MCHPSI
Hey now, a stroker crank in a circle track car??
So you know all the motors are not legal then. LOL
Old May 21, 2004 | 12:38 AM
  #22  
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I just used a 4340 Lightweight Eagle Crank and it didn't take any metal at all and balanced easy.

This was for a 383 that I'm building myself. I think Stroker is right. I spoke with several engine shops in Phoenix and everyone thought the Callies Dragon Slayer was over priced and no better than a forged Eagle crank. For some reason that crank doesn't seem to have a good rep.

I was all set to buy the Callies dragon Slayer until I spoke with several shops many who build the dirt track cars and the eagle and Scat forged stuff holds up. I also used the H beam rods with L19 ARP bolts. I haven't heard anyone talk bad about those rods either.

I guess it just depends on how much you want to spend. I wasn't crazy about using the Chinese stuff either
Old Jun 24, 2004 | 03:30 PM
  #23  
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For future searches i want to add a bit to this... I got my magnum crank, because the racemaster was not available... Now...

This crank made my eagle look like crap... A lot nicer unit... Lets see how it performs.. it weighed 48.4#.
Old Jun 24, 2004 | 04:10 PM
  #24  
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Sheesh he never comes back to check the replies? :blam:

I'll be sticking with my Scat 9000 for now.
Old Jun 24, 2004 | 06:49 PM
  #25  
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A "best crank" thread with no mention of Bryant, Winberg, LAE or HTC billets.... hmm.

Bret is right though.... you most likely don't need an ultra high dollar crank for your build. Save your money for other things.... like plastic surgery, call girls, you know... the important things in life.

-Mindgame
Old Jun 24, 2004 | 07:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by Mindgame
Save your money for other things.... like plastic surgery, call girls, you know... the important things in life.

-Mindgame
HEAD!!!! Er...headwork
Old Jun 24, 2004 | 08:15 PM
  #27  
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by TCAL95Z
[B]I just used a 4340 Lightweight Eagle Crank and it didn't take any metal at all and balanced easy.

I have the eagle 4340 crank also. It did not take no metal at all either. You can buy these cranks all day long on ebay for 350. 00
My machine shop guy told me it would hold up to 1200 hp with the eagle hbeam rods and the L19 bolts. It is not the best looking crank but if it will take the abuse.
Old Jun 30, 2004 | 10:13 PM
  #28  
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You got the 4340 lightweight Eagle crank for $350?
Thats a great deal I've never seen one on ebay anywhere close o that
Most of the eagle 4340 cranks that are not lightweight are $500

I guess I've never seen a $2,000 crank to know the difference but the Forged Eagle looked a lot better than some of the cast or off brand forged cranks I saw guys using in my engine class
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 04:16 AM
  #29  
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I picked up my 4340 Eagle assembly with the H beams and the ARP 2000 bolts. I think the rods will break before those bolts will. And I'm serious on that one.

As far as which is the best... no comment. Eagle and Scat seem to be the best bang for the buck though.

BTW, who can afford
plastic surgery, call girls, you know... the important things in life.
after ordering any type of aftermarket parts? Especially cranks/rotating assemblies.

So how come no one has mentioned a nice billet titanium crank and rods?
Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:10 AM
  #30  
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Originally posted by 97WS6SCharged
So how come no one has mentioned a nice billet titanium crank and rods?
Maybe because a billet titanium crank doesn't exist?

Titanium rods..... yes, but man are they $$$$$$$.

The highest stressed cranks out there are probably in Top Fuel cars. They're billet.

-Mindgame

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