The machine shop will be done with my engine next week. I will be able to re-use the stock pistons, mains bearings standard, and rods -.010.

What bearings and rings would be good to use? This is a daily driver that is getting a LT4 Hotcam installed.


Thanks

 

just get a bearing kit with oem bearings.I think they used federal mogul. Get Moly rings by sealed power. check your rods for straightness while they are out put in set of arp rod bolts. check your pistons for wear,check your cylinder walls for wear,Check crank for wear and polish. clean them all out realy good.(non-abrasives only) run a hone through it if all is within tolerances re-assemble and enjoy.

 

Clevitte
Rod-CB663H
Mains-MS909H
Cam-SH1349S
If the crank has been turned .010 the number's will have a -10 on the end.
Any ductile iron standard tension premium ring set-Total Seal-C&A-Seal Power-etc.If ya plan on never running hot,detonation,or "0" dirt use molly.Never seen that happen though. Run it steaming hot one time or a little dirt or a bad load of gas where it rattles real good and C Ya.

 

Not a huge fan of clevlite they are softer than FM and have had qc issues. Correct me if im wrong but stock rings are moly. stock replacment by sealed power from autozone are moly as well. Ive seen my share of overheated lt1,s without ruining the engine the first time.

 

Do it however ya want.I wouldn't put molly in my lawn mower and there is nothing wrong with Clevitte brgs. If ya get the "cheepie set" from any brand they are soft.
I build engines in my shop for drag and circle track and this is what I have found out over the last 35+ years.
So build um however ya want.

 

No pun intended. didnt mean to offend. im just saying GM has engineered engines for longer than both of us added together have been alive and they use FM and molly stock on these engines. Lt1 rings on a stock piston are different than a regular old chevy sbc ring set. They are metric. So you might have a hard time ordering any stock replacement other than molly. However ive never tried to order different so i wouldnt know. just usefull info is all.

 

The reason they use FM is price and there is nothing wrong with FM if ya get the right quality set and over the counter GM brgs won't take the pounding a 'built' engine gives um. Check out all the bearing failures written up on this board and don't try to tell me it's trash left in the engine after working on it.Do ya realize how much would have to be left in an engine to plug up the oil pump pickup?
Anybody that makes rings has them to fit a LT1 or any thing else.
I personally dont get auto parts from AZ or Pep boy's or Manny Moe or Jack's place.They got no idea.
OBTW GM rings are made by Seal Power and again price.

 

Thats good to know, Autozone sells the same brand of molly rings gm uses. GM bearings are FM bearings. The same bearings people on this board use to spin there lt1 up to 7200 and more. They will handle a hot cam without a doubt.

Theres no way to be sure. Each engine is different, however its not the oil pump getting clogged by the dirt. Its the tiny dirt particles getting caught in between the bearing and the crank or cam turning into and abrasives. most people are sloppy and the gasket they just scraped off the front of the intake has sent tons of tiny debris into there engine. thats all it would take or anything of that nature.Oil filters cant filter it all. But anyway thats another story and way off topic.

 

No not off topic,it pertains to the quality of OEM brgs the General uses.
Yes ya can be sure if ya know what ya are looking at and see enough to know.
The only way the "tiny"particles get in the engine is to bypass the filter 'cause ALL oil passes through the filter before it goes to the engine so thats BS.The trash may wear out the pump but that would be a gradual thing and ya could see it on the guage and no way could there be enough to clog the pickup unless ya cut up an intake gasket and left it in the valley on purpose or ya are a real slob,in which case ya shouldn't be turning wrenches on any engine.
Rod brg failure is caused by the bolts stretching from the extra RPM's,main failure is due to the quality of the brg(can't stand the load).Cam brg failure is the same reason. Seen several that were like that.Installed brgs that could take it and they are fine.

Unless ya are very familiar with what ya are doing I wouldn't buy anything for a "build"until ya talk to somebody that knows what they are doing. This ain't your daddy's 327.Back when GM put enough quality parts in them to last and take a beating and I definitely wouldn't trust the likes of AZ to steer me in the right direction.

Do it your way and be prepared for it to come unwound like a dollar watch.

 

It doesnt matter were you get the parts. sealed power rings are good quality and so are FM bearings. And no it wont come apart. Ive built 3 cc306 powered lt1's all running fm bearings and sealed power molly rings. One of them wich now runs 11's on spray and has for over a year now.

What rings would you put in a stock piston lt1 that arent molly? find me a link cause ive been lookin. not to say they dont exist i just couldnt find any.

hehe.. you gotta be kidding me. Throw a 150 shot of nos on a stock ls1 and a old school stock sbc from the 60's and see which comes apart faster. I bet i already know. Modern technology always wins.

Either way i was just offering the man some advise.

 

Offer the right advice then. My shop car runs 300 shot and it don't have molly or OEM brgs.

Just a normal 8.50 ride....

 

ok heres some advice.

clevlite

and then theres

clevlite

read up and get whatever you feel comfortable with.Got plenty more if your interested.



Kinda wishing this guy gets someone elses opinion too.

 

I use clevite bearings for rods and mains on everything I build, and Dura bond for the cam. Never had a problem, most the builders I know also use them.

As far as rings go, I use moly, cast, chrome...it depends on the application. All our motors get a free dyno session once running to verify that timing, fuel, cooling etc is working correctly so that failures related to the tune are eliminated. Only on some of our road race stuff do I specify a differnet ring pack such as C&A ZGS, other than that I use what is supplied by JE or Mahle with their pistons, and so far I am very happy with the way they wear over the season, and leakdown numbers are great at the end of the year...everybody has their favorites and opinions.

 

Thanks for the responses everyone. My options are still open, I have till around tuesday to place the order.....

 

In all honesty, if you go cheap with the oem bearings and rings you are not really even going to be saving more than a few bucks, I went with clevite H bearings all around, $90 total seal ductile iron file fit rings, and a moroso high volume oil pump, which is clearly more than you need for a mild rebuild, and it still only came out to a little under $300 which is pretty cheap considering that the rings costed $90. BTW stock rings suck, 2 of mine went bad on my LT1 at only 61K on a car that was bone stock.