Make sure you have a nice fat ground wire going from the motor to the body. What is happening is that the only ground(s) you have now are just small little ground wires and not enough current is getting through. You might be even melting some of them.

I had this problem when I relocated my Optima to the rear.

 

One thing to keep in mind if you plan on drag racing your car a lot, is to be NHRA legal you need to have an approved battery box back there. I am pretty sure that you can only have an open battery with a tie down if you have an aluminum firewall between the compartment and the passenger area. I am planning on moving my battery, and my friend reminded me of that fact.

 

You also need a cut-off switch to turn the car off, and they do test it to make sure it works.

 

Which is another reason I am putting it back up front.

 

I am moving mine back up front for that very reason

 

It's not all that hard to wire up the switch. just some wire and a relay (relay cuts the power from the alternator to the car)

 

I put it there to get better 60's, but the gain in weight hurt my MPH and it did not help at all.

If I want to start having kill switches on my car, then that will be the day I sell this car and buy a real car powered by a big cube BBC.

 

How heavy was the box and wire? My 0/2 wire feels like 20-30lbs.
I had to relocate my battery with my old setup, no if's and's or but's about it.
http://www.transamws6.com/pics/transam/engine.jpg

 

I would guess an easy 20lbs of cabling, the relocation box, maybe with the bracket I made, 3 lbs and the Optima battery, probably 40 lbs....the Optima feels much heavier than my stock GM battery.

I will be going to an Odyssey or Dynabatt, which weigh in around 13-16 lbs.

I am hoping to save 50 lbs of weight.

 

Is that the small tiny battery, about the size of 2 video cassettes?
Are they ok to run on a daily driven car, or just for occassional use?

 

They look about 1/2 the size of a normal battery and yes, people do use them with no problems.