LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

balancer install ???

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Old Sep 20, 2003 | 06:18 PM
  #1  
bowtiepwr's Avatar
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Question balancer install ???

>Hi all ,
I am about to install my ATI balancer even got an install tool , but it seems impossible to use ... why ?
The nut (on the tool) is difficult to turn when it's recessed in the hub .

So how did you install yours ? ... without using the old hammer and block of wood persuasion .
BTW
I have a Callies crank with the woodruf key .
Old Sep 20, 2003 | 07:54 PM
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dude its a PITA... what i did on my fluidampr is i heated the hub up wit my heat gun, another thing to do is heat up the dampr inside an oven for like 5-10 min or so.. just make sure its prett warm/hot.. then making sure to have the crank snout and inside of the hub fully lubed with engine oil... i cranked the hob on there as far as i could... it went on pretty 3/4 of the way before it started binding up and was strating to make me nervous cause i didn't wanna break anything inside the snout then 3/4 of the way on i put the hub bolt in and tightened it down pretty SNUG, make sure NOT to pt a lot of force on it cause the hub ISN'T all the way on yet...

then i crank the engine on and let it idle for like 5 min till she get's nice and warm etc... then crawl back under there and remove the bolt and re-install the installer and finish the job
Old Sep 20, 2003 | 09:22 PM
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Im just curiuos, does the ATI also have the crank pulley built in like the fluidampr. Also ive heard that ATI is the better way to go since the fluidampr shakes like crazy when its cold, is this true? one more thing, how much did you pay and where for it?
Old Sep 21, 2003 | 02:45 AM
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Originally posted by jonaddis84
Im just curiuos, does the ATI also have the crank pulley built in like the fluidampr. Also ive heard that ATI is the better way to go since the fluidampr shakes like crazy when its cold, is this true? one more thing, how much did you pay and where for it?
no fluidampr is better from idle to 7000rpm and ATI fluidampr is better above 7000 rpm... its been dyno proven.. so base your secision on that..

personally i have a fluidampr and it doesn't vibrate when it's cold i don't know who came up with that...
Old Sep 21, 2003 | 11:48 AM
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>thanks , but I was hoping there was a better way to do this .
Old Sep 21, 2003 | 11:54 AM
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Can't you use a socket or some washers to space the nut out?
Old Sep 21, 2003 | 02:43 PM
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Originally posted by shoebox
Can't you use a socket or some washers to space the nut out?
>that is now the plan to use a butt load of washers since that should evenly distribute the load , and the bearing will stop any type of gauling .
Thanks
Old Sep 21, 2003 | 05:25 PM
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Originally posted by bowtiepwr
>that is now the plan to use a butt load of washers since that should evenly distribute the load , and the bearing will stop any type of gauling .
Thanks
yea thats the way your supposed to do it didn't realize you were asking that... what did you think you were gonna get that hub on with one washer lol.... you gotta use like 12 of them stacked on each other and then put the bearing on the end to get it on... it's still bish getting those thing's on though... have fun
Old Sep 21, 2003 | 06:10 PM
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So under 7000= fluidampr, over 7000=ATI then? And either one comes with the keyed hub correct?
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