Attn: Engine Builders
Attn: Engine Builders
I am no pro engine builder, but would like to get there someday. I have only rebuilt a 2.2 engine for an S10 in the past that still runs and have been itching to rebuild my LT1 since I finished the truck. I would like to eventually get my car in the 10's and want to do it by myself. So the ? is, Should I just do a stock/mild rebuild and see how it goes or while I have it out and apart should I just go for the forged/bullitproof components? What is your opinion? Also while I'm rebuilding where is the best place to get the procedures/Specs from? P.S. Anyone feeling generous enough to "Show me your ways?". Thanks in advance for any responses.
Go get you some books and read them, There is alot to learn....tens are going to take X amount of power in car X at weight X.......so the more you know the easier it will be to choose the right path.
Just throwing together a stock engine and blueprinting a performance engine is 2 different worls...but the knowledge you would attain in the process is well worth it....Even if she blows up!!
The bottom end is basically small chevy.....so anything in that area, just general knowledge......I think there is a LT1/4 book in summit...not sure if it is any good... neever looked at it and I can't read anyways
I've read this book a few times and it has some good tips.
http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-...7539085&sr=8-1
Once you determine your needed HP/TQ, then you can build your engine around a blower, NA, Turbo, or Nitrous. Have you reinforced your driveline including differential and trans?
It can go there but we need more info.
http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Small-...7539085&sr=8-1
Once you determine your needed HP/TQ, then you can build your engine around a blower, NA, Turbo, or Nitrous. Have you reinforced your driveline including differential and trans?
It can go there but we need more info.
Last edited by Wild1; Apr 25, 2007 at 05:15 PM. Reason: Link didn't work the first time
Get the LT1 book and read it through several times. Build a stock motor as your first attempt - if you start adding performance parts, a lot more can go wrong if you don't know what to look for with fitments and clearances.
I built my first motor at 16 with no help other than HP Books "How to build the small block Ford", made 300 on the rollers and still runs great today. You just need to take your time and double check everything. Find a good machine shop and have them do a "machine for kit", that is what we call a complete motor machined up and given to the customer to build himself. Then if you have any questions, ask your machinist and I am sure he will help you out.
I built my first motor at 16 with no help other than HP Books "How to build the small block Ford", made 300 on the rollers and still runs great today. You just need to take your time and double check everything. Find a good machine shop and have them do a "machine for kit", that is what we call a complete motor machined up and given to the customer to build himself. Then if you have any questions, ask your machinist and I am sure he will help you out.
[QUOTE=MachinistOne;4564980]Get the LT1 book and read it through several times. Build a stock motor as your first attempt - if you start adding performance parts, a lot more can go wrong if you don't know what to look for with fitments and clearances.
Could you please give me an example or elaborate a little with what happens with the fitments/clearances when adding performance parts. Thanks.
Could you please give me an example or elaborate a little with what happens with the fitments/clearances when adding performance parts. Thanks.
When you start adding components that were not in the motor originally you almost always run into issues. We have a saying "you must modify everything", you can slap a motor together and have it run, but that does not mean that it is right.
Roller rockers can lead to valve cover clearancing, oil pans sometimes need massaging to fit correctly, change any part of the valvetrain and geometry and PR length needs to be checked and changed, rebuild kits bought through mail order are notorious for incorrect clearances and loose tolerances. Manifolds and heads lead to port alignment problems that need to be ported to match, etc...
Roller rockers can lead to valve cover clearancing, oil pans sometimes need massaging to fit correctly, change any part of the valvetrain and geometry and PR length needs to be checked and changed, rebuild kits bought through mail order are notorious for incorrect clearances and loose tolerances. Manifolds and heads lead to port alignment problems that need to be ported to match, etc...
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