I am currently building a forged 355 for a turbo setup. Most of the built LT-1's that I have seen are sporting a stock damper. Looking at it in contrast to its aftermarket counterpart, the stock one looks like a total piece of S**T. Has anyone had good or bad results with stock or aftermarket and is it worth it to spend the extra cash for one of these?? Thanks

 

My research on the better dampeners is that they provide a benefit at high rpms (7K and up). Are you planning to spin the motor that high? If not, you may want to put the money to other use.

 

I just ordered an ATI damper (as recommended by my machinist) for my 383/T trim build. $351 and some change shipped from Thunder Racing. Too bad I have to wait a week since it wasn't in stock. Still a good deal though.

Ps. The sale ends Sunday.

 

Yeah, I have heard that most dampers will handle the lower frequencies no prob, just start to struggle when above the stock limits which I intend to stay at. I have NO PLANS FOR A 7,000 RPM SCREAMER, just a 900 or so HP beast. Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it!

 

What part of the country are you in? As in cold weather. The fluidamper is not like they tell you it is. It takes a long time to warm up and shakes the crap out of ya til it does. I got one I would like to sell ya.

 

Consider the fact that Fluidampr went out of business a couple years ago, and was only resurected from the dead by another company about a year ago.

I bought the ATI because it was the only SFI-rated damper available when I built the stroker in 2000. I've seen it used on a couple of high HP LT1's (Madman, Baxter) using the ATI, and the only problem they both had was having the billet hub break because they were running 20+ # of boost, and the hub couldn't handle the load from the blower pulley, unless it was reinforced and double keyed to the crank.

I'm still trying to figure out why Warren Johnson endorses Fludiampr????

 

If building a blower engine,consider a keyway on both sides of the crank=2 keys. A real good machine shop can cut your crank and hub and ya eliminate the sheared keys and spinning hub issues that come with a cog or 12 rid belt and 15+PSI. I have done several like that with no issues up to 26 #. After that it gets to be TT-Turbo Time-ATI would be your best choice.