Is this a pretty accurate write up?
http://www.blackcamaro.com/headstud.htm

It basically says to clean out the threads with a chaser and bottom out the studs. Should I use ARP thread sealant on the studs to prevent coolant seepage? I don't plan on putting the gaskets and heads on for another couple weeks. Would this cause a problem when I go to torque the heads on? Will it disrupt the thread sealer and be more likely to cause coolant seepage? Also, instead of torquing, loosening and retorquing to get accurate torque and stud stretch, can I use ARP's Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricant and torque them once and be done?

I've searched and found that APR thread sealer, permanex #2, and thread locker are all recommended about equally. I just don't want to put this motor in and have a coolant leak.

 

You will probably get different opinions on thread sealer. I like the "Liquid Teflon". I don't believe thread locker is necessary.
The guy with the write-up seems a little **** about getting the holes dry. But it won't hurt. You can install the studs any time before installing the heads on the block.
Yes, you can use the "ARP's Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricant" or not it up to you.

 

The reason that guy is so **** about getting the holes dried out is because its for a Gen III application, the head bolt holes are dead headed in the block, meaning they do not go through into the water jackets.

When i put heads on a LS1 you really did have to be **** about drying the bolt holes completely, because even blowing out most of the coolant with an air compressor the little that remained still cause us the run in a hydro lock issues when threaded the new bolts, which would be a very easy and stupid reason to crack a block.

but the answer the op's question i would use the the permatex, i've always had great luck with their sealant

 

The Permatex thread sealer works well. As for the ARP Ultra Torque, there's many builders having trouble with that stuff not doing what ARP says it does. I would try to use the old white bottle lube if you have it, or if you are going to use the Ultra Torque I would burnish the threads once and then pull to 70lbs, not the 80 that the instructions say as you run the risk of pulling threads out of the block.

 

Anyone know off hand what size/pitch the head studs are. I have a tap/die set but I don't think I have the right one.

Also since the ultra torque doesn't seem to work as advertised and is kinda pricey will regular oil work? I don't want to have to tighten, loosen and retighten multiple times for each stud.

 

Should be 7/16-14.

 

There are different torque specs for the moly lube or engine oil, so make sure you use the correct one, and don't use a tap if you caqn help it, use a thread chaser. You want to get the crap out of the existing threads, not take a chance of cutting the metal and make the holes looser. It's not expensive to get a thread chaser set.

 

Sorry, but this sounds like BS to me. If the holes are blind then he wouldn't need sealer, would he? And we're hand treading STUDS not bolts into the block.
And even if the holes were completely full of water I don't think it would make one bit of difference, because the threads are NEVER water tight, that's why you need sealent, or they leak!!
Please post just one person who has proof that they crack their block because they left a little water in the bolt hole.

 

I thought they were basically the same. But yes, if my tap/die set doesn't have the right size, I'm getting a chaser from NAPA.

 

Believe it or not, it is a common occurrence with the LS family engines.

 

wow settle down little man

maybe the op should have been a little more clear about what he was doing, his screen name, avatar, and question suggests he owns and is working on an LT1... yet he posts a how-to for an LSx motor...

Then you come in here and suggest that the guy in the how-to article was being too **** about cleaning out and drying threads on an ls1 engine when threading bolts/studs... I then offered an explanation for the reasoning behind cleaning and drying threads on that application. Apparently you havn't had much experience with those motors which is fine, but what i did post is not a lie and there are many who have damaged ls1's from this, hopefully you can consider yourself better informed for the future now

But this is completely pointless, im pretty sure the OP is talking about his LT1, and the reasons for cleaning threads on these motors is for getting accurate torque readings when torquing down bolts which obviously isn't a priority with studs... unless you want your sealant to work, and not have coolant leaking from your heads once your done

 

Yeah, its on my LT1 383. The block is dry and has been for years so I don't think that'll be an issue.

 

This is fairly common and I have seen it first hand on the 6.0 LQ9 block. Residual water in those bolt holes act just like it would in a cylinder...since water doesn't compress, something's gonna give..

The write up does not mention sealer, it speaks to assembly lube.

 

Very interesting, but your going to have to do better then that!
We have MachinistOne saying, "common occurrence with the LS family engines". And we have bw_hunter saying, "This is fairly common and I have seen it first hand"
Yet in 126,386 post in the LS1 Based Engine Tech section of this Forum there is not a single one dealing with cracked bolt holes. And after several hours of gen. WEB surfing not a single article or post dealing with this "fairly common" problem. Also after scanning dozens of on line articles from Hot Rod, Car Craft, Pop. Hot Hodding, etc. not a single caution or warning about this being a potential problem.
Does Chevrolet know about this common problem? Are there NOTES or Cautions in Chevys repair manuals? If this is a common problem then it should be easy to fine picts. and post about it. Where are they???

As for the "write-up" about cleaning the holes: 7 to 10 passes and 5 hours to clean a couple of dozen bolt holes!!!! If this isn't being ****, they need to change the definition.

 

Against my better judgement I'm actually going to respond to your post...generally I refrain from getting into arguments on the internet with people who think that their own admitted "speculation" carries more weight than those with actual hands on experience or at least first/second hand knowledge.

1. I have seen this first hand, being that I machine and build engines on a daily basis and have been doing so for the last 10 years there is a lot that I have seen...

2. My simple 30 second Google search came up with 2 instances of this problem on your "tech" site of choice, not to mention the countless threads on other tech related websites that were returned. Maybe some practice with Google would be more beneficial to you and your future endeavors than blind attacks on faceless people on a message board.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...ns-needed.html

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...ce-please.html

This really can, and does happen.

But yes, 5 hours is a ridiculous amount of time to devote to cleaning out the holes, it's really a 10 minute job if that.