I think the thing to that is, the lower torque reading should be more accurate because there is less friction involved on the the threads. There has to be some basis to start from and that's how they do it.

As I read on ARP's and other's sites, torque-angle is a long used method in many areas of professional engineering as the way to provide the most repeatable and accurate fastening.

 

For those who have done the torque angle method. Was your enginge in the car? I am doing heads with the engine in car and I am ready to install head bolts I was planning on just doing the 22-45-65-65 method but i'd like to do torque angle if I can. I also noticed torque angle is a ony a two step process 22ft/lbs-67/80 degress is that good?

 

My final torque I used on my ARP pro Bolts, was 65 ft #s
I also got there in 3 stage increments, the first was 30, the second 45 aqnd the third was the 65, I then waited quite a while and redid the final torque on them all again. I used the ARP moly thread lube on the top bolts and their washers and used the ARP sealant on the rest with the moly lube on the washers.

 

You could split the angle into a couple steps if you wanted. I don't see why that would hurt anything. Just as long as they add up to the total degrees. The T/A method is a little harder to do, IMO. It would be harder with the engine in the car (mine was out), because you have to read the meter.

 

Is that meter something that goes in between a regular socket wrench and the socket ? ANd what is the silver tube coming off of it in the picture? What does something like that run cause looks like I could use it in the bay?

 

Yes, it goes in between your ratchet or breaker bar and the socket. The "tube" thing is a flexible cable that you can attach with the clamp to hold the meter still. Others that I had seen did not have as nice a way to clamp it still.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-28100.html

I actually bought mine from the place above.