A local speed shop installer said if I wanted some good headers to Buy Arizonia Speed and Marine. He dose not sell them, but said he would install them and replace the Opi-Spark and water pump. (I buy the parts) for $500.00. Who has these Headers how do they fit, how easy can you get to the Plugs.

Thanks

Mark

 

I had them. They are generally considered near the top or the best non long tube headers you can get.

Plug access on the driver side is cake. Passenger side... grab a few beers and a first aid kit .

 

Can you use Taylor over the valve cover wire with these and why did you take them off. What street car Headers would you said to get.

Thanks

 

I would get some jet hot LT's. But if you get the Taylor OTVC, they would work great. That price doesn't sound too bad either. But be adventerous and do it yourself.

 

I don't see why you couldn't use the Taylor wires going over the valve covers.

I took them off because I replaced them with long tubes. I have no emissions testing in my area and am getting ready for a 396

For street car headers, the AS&M are an excellent choice IMO. Long tubes are as well but there are several issues with long tubes ike reduced ground clearance, emissions testing, not many options for y-pipes, stuff like that.

 

I just switched to AS&Ms this past weekend. It was the easiest header install I've ever done. I used extra long Magnacor wires, intended for LT1s with headers. The longer wires allowed me to generally retain the stock wire routing, with the exception of the #8 cylinder, which I had to route outside the primary tube. I've only put about fifty miles on the car so far, so I'm not yet able to claim this as a long term option to the OTVC conversion.

My only complaint is that the detachable primary on the driver's side is a pain to install, and just barely clears the steering shaft. I also found that I had to tie wrap a number of hoses and wires to keep them from being burned. This still represents a fraction of the effort required for the install/ operation of the SLP headers.

If you like the AS&M design, I would encourage you to buy the almost identical RK Sports for $200.00 less. Unfortunately I didn't have this option on my '93.

 

i've had them for a year now. i've just finished installing a new converter, and all my wires look good to me. i have the msd wires and had to make a longer wire for #8, all are run in the stock location. i put the metal boots and sleeves on 5, 6, 7 & 8 to help with the heat.

get a cut plug socket, one that is bored out to slide farther onto the plug(part will actually stick out) and cut down a wrench to fit. all i have to do is remove the starter to get the rear plugs. just put a rag on the collector cause if you drop the socket, good luck getting it out of there.

steve

 

Brent, Did yours rust any? I just pulled mine out for the rebuild and they are rusting in places. Mostly at the welds and at the slip fit for the#1 primary. I am really disapointed.

 

I have had mine for about 3 1/2 years. They still look great. Love the sound and the ground clearance.

 

Driver's side is no problem. You may have to get a little creative on the passenger side though. I have 3 of the 4 wires coming from the top, and the other from the side. There's limited room to run the plug wires through the #6 & 8 primaries without getting burnt.

 

Steve40,

What "metal boots" are you using ?

 

the factory ones that go over the plug boot

 

I have the RK Sports on my car. I found the driver's side pretty tight when we were installing them. The #1 slip fit was a kind of a pain, but just took a bit of patience and some time. I am using Accel 300+ wires in the stock locations. I don't think I have the metal boot protectors on. I do have fire sleeves on 4 of the plugs. I haven't done a plug change since the install. I will do that this summer. I have bought the shortened plug socket for when I do the job though.