I'm geeting ready this weekend to drop my motor back in the car. I putting on FLP's berfore I drop it in. Anything I should do before or after I have it all hooked up. ny help would be great.

 

i had to put poly mounts in my car to keep my flp's from banging my floor boards. seeing as your engine is out now is the time to put em in. oh btw before you tighten the driver side header put #5 plug in and snug it. its a pita later I spent 3 hours cursing at it then i loosened off the header and it slipped in. and you might want some accell fire boots also or else your wires will be toast in no time.

 

did i mis understand you? your putting them on BEFORE you drop your motor in? lol i dont think so!!! what i would do is put the engine in, before you bolt it down push it to one side and slip the one header in. then push it to the other side and put the other one in. there isnt much room in there to play.

 

How do you like the poly mounts? I've got the y-pipe banging problem too, but I'm afraid poly mounts will cause the whole car to vibrate.

 

why can't you put headers on before you install motor? i've put my headers on with the motor out of the car several times... allthough i wouldn't recommend pulling teh motor just for ease of header installation if you pull the motor from the bottom, you can bolt up your long tubes before they are in the car... much easier then when the motor is back in the car...

 

Um.. dont put them on your car I have had nothing but problems from my set.

1.Bangs on floorbaord (duh!)
2.Always leaking from the v-clamps
3. Had to order special shorter spark plugs when i switched to AFR heads because of the design.
4.Coatin on bottom of the car is rusting pretty good.
5.Didnt notice much gains.

Well maybe i just have bad luck with things

 

Yeah from the bottom it might work

but im guessing 90% or more pull the motor from the top



poly mounts are great i much rather have the minamal vibrations than the annoying banging floor boards I used prothane and i got the tranny mount also.

 

if you pull to motor from the top you are stupid

 

Re-route the 2 ABS wiring harnesses for the front wheel sensors, wrap heat reflective tape around any wire that may come close to the headers. I also wrapped heat reflective tape around certain portions of my plug wires.

 

I was going to say same thing. Sell them and buy hookers. Plug access SUCKS on the FLPs, their coating sucks, they leak, and they are overpriced. JMHO

 

Ok you can look at this in a different way then I do, but I would have to say I've seen people with hookers coating come off in no time and know people who have sent them back twice already. They did not even have them that long. In summit you can get the headers for $410 and the Y-pipe for $300. There you are at $710 and you only have the headers coated, not the y-pipe. If you where to get cats you can get them $100 ea. and you would need a custom y-pipe made, say $400. Now you are at $1110 and I paid $1200 for my FLP's and get the y-pipe coated and header and off road pipes. And they come with the cats. I also bought them for ground clearence. So far I have not had a problem yet. Plug access is not great but it is way better then exhaust manifolds and I could change all 8 plugs with the manifolds in 45 mins. Someone also said on another post that there was no way I was going to be able to drop the motor in the car with the headers on. Well I did and it was easier then taking it out with the manifolds on. This is just how I look at it and I know that there is no way you can tell that much of a difference between hooker's and flp's

 

The only thing I like about my FLPs is the ground clearance. The clear better than the stock setup.

Complaints:
-Overpriced- I dont use the cats or the emissions crap anymore. Time of purchase I needed them though.

-Coating sucks and is chipped and they are rusting.
-Leak at the flanges
-Plug access absolutely sucks my ****.
-Bangs my floorboard also. even with the temp fix i use.

 

BAD97SS...you put the motor back in the car with the headers bolted on through the top? I would've loved to have seen that! Anyhooo, it costs under $100 to have an exhaust shop build a y-pipe, and 2 new cats can be had for under $100 also.

 

Ditto, you can build your own Y pipe/cat combo for WAY less than what you quoted.

Dont get me wrong, hookers ceramic coating sucks too. If you dont want them rusting, send them out to be nickle plated. The only coating i have seen hold up well is nickle, but it doesnt offer the same heat protection a ceramic.

As for plug access, sure its better than stock manifolds, but go change plugs on a hooker LT car and see how easy that is compared to the FLPS. Hookers make the FLPs look like the stock manifods in comparison.