One company I know of did, they are out of biz I think, anyone still make the little deal that bolts down on the top of it to stop it from being spit out if it ever breaks?


David

 

hey Dave. I got one a factory one on my motor at Joey's house or you can get Clyde to make on at his shop and I still have mine so I can get the dimensions for you Later Art

 

Not that I know of anymore

 

Do you have those dimentions?

I have a build-up being assembled in about 3 weeks.... anything you have would be great.

 

I made a sketch of the one I bought from More Performance and scanned into "My Pictures" on my PC. I don't know how to post it here but I could attach it to an e-mail, if you want.

 

That'd be great.

 

OK, PM me your e-mail address

 

BTW I finished my oil pump hold down brace

just grabbed some 3/16" thick steel flat bar (3' x 1.5") from Lowe's Hardware and a 5/16" stud (used ARP SBC carb stud kit... comes with 4 studs/nuts/washers ).

TRACE
1) clamp oil pump assembly to flat bar... allign one straight edge on each to reduce the number of cuts needed.
2) Use a awl, nail, utility knife or any sharp point to trace around the oil pump assembly anchor. MAKE SURE YOU spike or mark the center of the hold down hole.
3) remove clamp and assembly

DRILL HOLE
4) clamp or vice the flat steel bar to a work bench or waste wood you can drill into without concern....
5) Drill the hole with a 5/16" drill bit. Use a new Titanium coated bit will help keep the cut clean... I also dripped some cutting fluid on it to keep the temps down.
6) remove clamp and flat bar (with a hole in it)

ROUGH CUT
7) use sawzall, hacksaw, jig saw, band saw, etc... to rough cut the bar into the trapazoid you need.
8) cut the brace off the rest of the bar.

FINAL SHAPE
9) Use a dremel to cut-off / grind / sand down the round ends.

CORROSION PROTECTION
10) Sand the piece clean
11a) paint the steel brace (Gyptal Red or POR-15 )...or...
11b) coat the steel brace with a Zinc Phospate coating (like Fast Etch from Eastwood).

OPTIONS
- You may want to tack weld a small lip onto the "front" edge of the brace to prevent it from swinging towards the back of the engine (clockwise from above) when tightening the bolt or stud-nut. Not a big deal, but it's an easy tip of you have a MIG welder laying around. Obviously do this before painting/coating thought .
- Use a 5/16" stud to hold down the brace instead of the stock bolt. The stock bolt won't do the job with the extra layer of steel in there (it'll be too short)... due to the angle of the boss, you'll need to thread the stud into the block after the oil pump assembly is in the block not a big deal though. Because the stud has to come out before the oil pump assembly can, you'll want to avoid usiong locktight on the stud base threads, and instead use anti-seise ont he treads like you would with a bolt. Other option is to get a longer bolt (5/16" course thread)... either way works. I used ARP's SBC carborator stud kit for this stud (and the three left over studs for the lifter guide retainter spider thing in the middle of the lifter valley ).

Simple and easy fix for a potentially REALLY bad breakage.

Thanks to everyone that gave me specs and pics, I sort of mixed and matched the various types to make one with basic tools.

 

pics man we need pics!!!!!

-B

 

I would like pics too. Thanks

 

I'll take some pics tonight and email them over tomorrow.