Since having rebuilt my LT1 to a 383 my car usually runs in the 205-210 degree range. Also my A/F meter says when the car is warmed up it runs really lean. I was wondering if after a pcmforless tune do or can they richen up the A/F ratio to help the car run a little cooler. Ive got a fan switch, so my fans are always running but it doesnt change the temp. I know i could run a 160 thermostat but if its running 205-210 degree its going to do that with or without a 160 right??? Thanks

 

Have pretty much same stuff, so I am ready for a let down too? I have a CAT crank, factory rods, -12cc pistons for about 10.8:1 compression, Hot cam, adj fuel regulator, stock heads and exhaust, only reason I went 383 was engine was shot (knocking rod).

 

about 2600 it says with a 383. stock gears, nothing porting.

 

thats how my went......racing a honda down in florida. Threw a rod bearing at 6,000 rpm. AND STILL WHOOPED HIS A$$

 

after the rebuild, as far as the computer? I will be starting mine soon. I put 30# injectors too.

 

How does it work, send your pcm and they send it back updated? How is the hot cam, lopey? I heard in a 383 it is mild...

 

feels like something is still missing in the HP range. Torque is unreal though!! Not sure if its the computer or gears or what. Ive been told taht 30# inj are too small but they were free so i cant complain. As far as pcmforless.com ,you place an order and send them money,(its $99 plus a 125 core charge and if you return your pcm within a week you get like $115 back) Hot cam isnt the biggest cam but ive seen a lot of nice numbers with it It has a slight lope to it. Almost like a sleeper cam.

 

What is wrong? What am I in store for on startup or when I drive it, was told not to open it up until pcmforless does it all, and breakin. I read on a site the hot cam is good in a 350 but very tame in a 383.

 

as far as my setup...i think its a combo of a few things. Need gears and pcm tuning ..maybe better ignition. Mine ran REALLY rough the first few times i drove it until the computer relearned everything. On start-up...not too many surprises..just break the cam in and change the oil and for GOD's sake watch the temp guage on break in. Almost completely FU$KEd my motor up cause the damn machinist put a crack in my block

 

I don't have a 383, just a stock block. I run a 160 stat and had Bryan reprogram my fans for 175-180(somewhere around there, I let him make the call) and I never seem to go above 180 on the temp gauge. He can also change some tables for the lean condition.

 

What

 

On this rebuild I pull the radiator and oh my god dirt leaves hair etc and lots of dirt.

 

Plugged mufflers or wore cams that can make it overheat... or run hotter than it did, just a thought.

 

But the rings and bearings need breaking in, bearings seated and rings sealed. Sound right?

 

usually i run open y-pipe and its a brand new cam and i hot wired my fans so they are on all the tiime. Honestly i think that it may have a lot to do with the fact im running pretty lean.
I thought you break in all cams the same way...maybe i was mistaken though.
I put about 750 miles on my motor just to be safe. Even then it still was smokin. Guy i worked with in FLorida said i just need to kick the tires and light the fires and romp on it . I smoked the tires half way down the block and it quit. After you get a few miles on it probably less than i had(around 500 is usually good)...drive it like you stole it to seat everything fully. You need that quick increase in compression to fully seat teh rings. In my opinoin. Others may tell you differently