Ive had an AFR HydraRev kit sitting around for a couple years now. Well now with the Lt1 going in soon, Im upgrading to a cc305 cam, lt4 springs, on stock heads. From what Ive been reading around here, Lt1's like to rev to 6000+ with this cam. Much more than my TPI engines have ever taken.

So Im going to put the rev kit in just for safe measure. I figured its not costing me anything, and it cant really hurt, so why not. Less valve float is a good thing.

On a similar cammed/spring engine as mine, when do you usually start to float the valves normally? I see people spinning cc306 engines to 6800+ which from what Im used to is insane! Anyone with anything positive/negative to say about the rev kit?

 

If ya have the right valve springs ya won't need the kit.
I ran a couple kits and pulled them out of customer engines 'cause they were putting metal in the oil. It eats the locator bar were the spring sits in the seat. I sent them back to AFR and they said there was a problem but no fix,Sooooo. I fixed them with some machine work and some steel top hat washers.

6800 won't hurt a thing with a built engine. Stock short block ya are asking for a rebuild.

 

This post saved me yanking my new motor. 600 miles and oil was full of silver non magnetic flakes. A friend read this and I yanked the kit tonight. Sure enough it was coming apart. A few of the springs were eating the tops of the lifters and the springs were eating into the bars.

I have ran several rev kits in the past. Not for extended RPM but for safety. Nice to have some thing holding the lifters in if some thing happens up top. A few guys have had the lifter bars come off at high RPMs and I wanted to avoid that.

...This is what I get in return. I am NOT very freaking happy about it!

Freaking 550+HP engine and this.. Still yanking the pan to at check every thing out. I am shooting for tens in a few weeks and want it to live!

 

Glad I could post ya some useful info and save your engine.
Good luck with it.

 

Kinda sucks Ellis.... it's supposed to help and it does this. They should have made the locator bar out of steel, kinda like a spring in a head without a locator or seat, it eats up the aluminum.

Bret

 

Yeah I am pretty damn pissed about it that is for sure. I will be pulling bearings this weekend to see if them and the crank made it.

BTW Bret all that help you gave us last winter paid off. I can't thank you enough!

 

Well this is definatley some info I had never heard before. I did actually question why they would have the springs directly on aluminum, but never thought much more into it than that. Luckily though, Ive got a buddy who has a little machine shop, Ill have him open up the pockets a bit and put some hardened washers in there.

If after it turns out ok, if any of you would like it done, Ill post up after he finishes.

 

I ran the kit for a while...never had a problem with it.

I have spoken with a few shops that swear by them.

 

I bought it then researched it. I was going to use it with a 306 cam and decided against it. You definitely don't need it for the 305.

 

AFAIK there has been no design change. If ya havent had problems with them consider yourself LUCKY. I bet most havent EVEN checked.
The cams with low lift won't have as much trouble.

Rob ws6
The way to do it is make the locater plate out of steel but the lifter end will be tricky,maybe some heat treated aluminum alloy.

 

I was not only having issues with the aluminum getting eaten the springs were eating the tops of the lifter. Maybe with a little more prep on the Springs them selfs things would be better...but I am done with them.

My cam was not very extreme at .595/.608 lift

Again I was ONLY running this kit for safety and NO other reason.

 

Same here, Im only running one for the safety aspect.

1racerdude, Im planning on just installing hardened washers inside the locater plate. seems like it would be the easiest solution so the springs cant wear out the plate.

 

Then ya got to look at the lifter end as it will chew that up too.

 

i put mine in when i did the hot cam kit just for safety measures. then right after that i put the blower on. since the blower install i dont rev passed 5200. so i think it was a worthless thing to put in. but ive never found any metal in the oil so all seems well so far.

 

Use isky rev kits and never have a problem, season after season of re-use in 8000rpm GTA cars. Isky includes tappet washers with their kits, which means no particles in the oil. Their hard coat anodized plate does not show any wear.