Has anyone ever gotten rid of the stock coolant tank under the battery? I relocated my battery to the back and am looking for some more room in the spot where the battery used to be to mount some stuff.

I was thinking maybe someone has done this and used a smaller overflow tank in its place?

 

I was going to go with one of these after I relocated my battery, I think it should fit ok in that hole and it's cheap. I ended up moving the battery back up front this weekend though, I could not get rid of the starting problems I was having with it back there. I tried a lot of different things to fix it and still couldnt figure it out.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...03&prmenbr=361

 

Hmm thanks for the link! WOuld those allow you to add coolant as well through the tank?

What size cable were you using and do you have good grounds? Mine starts fine and ive even got the battery in the back on the drivers side.

 

It looks like you could add coolant through the top, I assume that is a cap on top that removes but not sure, I never bought it.

How do you have your battery wired up? I used a new optima red top located in the spare tire well in a summit aluminum box, 0/1 ga for the positive with copper lugs crimped on solidly with a very good crimping tool running straight to the starter, new 4 ga running from there to the alt and 4 ga from alt to positive distribution terminal up front. Battery grounded with 1 ga very solidly to the subframe, ground area clean where it connects. Car would start on first try sometimes, most times it would click rapidly and then take 3 or 4 tries to start. With it back up front it starts very strong the 1st time, every time. I've been messing with it for a few months now trying to get it right, it was driving me nuts. I gave up on it for now, I may try putting it back there again later on if I can figure out whats wrong.

 

I made my own box for it, ran a 1/0 ground to a bolt in the subframe. 1/0 positive to the battery switch, a wire from the other side of that up front to the distribution block, and a 4 ga from the alternator back to the battery side of the switch

 

funny you should ask, I just did this. It is in one of the pictures on this page

www.michiganspeed.com/dreamer1q/LT1

 

do you think that would be able to go down lower in the car? like in the area where that splash guard is underneath?

 

Just checking when you say battery switch you mean a battery disconect switch you installed, and that was all 1/0 up to the front? I have heard many people say to go straight to the starter to have the shortest length of cable, and thats how the GMHTP article said also, thats why I did it that way. But you and others I 've read about went straight up front and it seems to be working fine. I'll have to try running it upfront and see if that works. Thanks.

 

Maybe, but it would be a total pain in the *** to try and get to it should you need to.

 

1/0 to the battery disconnect, 1/0 from the switch up to a 4 lug d-block. a 4ga to the stock distribution post, 4 ga to the starter.

4 ga from the alternator back to the battery side of the switch to keep the car nhra legal.

 

That helps a lot, I'll try it that way. Thanks.