I was wondering if anyone has the modified the stock fuel rail to accept braided line and AN fittings for delivery and return? If you can provide nice pics, that would be awesome.
What kind of money and time is involved?

I would like to from where the fuel delivery leaves the actual fuel pump assembly just outside the tank, where it can be disconnected, add AN fittings for both sides and braided setups to the fuel rail.

Any ideas?

 

Why would you want to do this? Stock lines cna support pretty large amounts of hp.

Ryan

 

This would mostly only come in handy in lt1 swap situations... for example, Im swapping an lt1 into a 92 Trans Am, and Ill be flaring the fuel rail lines and using -6 AN fittings to go to flared stock lines in the trans tunnel. Although in my application it will look and perform great, Im not sure why you would want to do it in 4th gens.

 

Im in the middle of the swap right now... and you're looking at $1000-$1200 for a complete fuel system. Here is a diagram that I came up with.







I'm putting the system together this weekend and waiting on the fuel rails to be modified via welding -AN fittings.

Here is a GM perfornace site that has a similar swap.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0409htp_snow/

-B

 

I've got full braided SS lines for dual pumps, split feed fuel rails similar to the diagram above, single return off the diagonal cross-over pipe, etc. Feed and supply are -6AN, similar to stock sizes, and easilly supports 800HP, including dry nitrous.

With the dual pumps, all the AN fittings and hoses, billet fuel filter, AFPR and wleding the fuel rails its well over $1,000.

 

I know the stock systems can support a lot of hp. I just had to fix my shrader valve and pulling the rails off especially with the fuel disconnect is a pain.

I did not think modifying it would cost that much! I imagined an AN fitting at the fuel tank for feed and return, two braided lines up to the rails, AN fittings on the rails and thats it...maybe $300 in mind.
I guess its all relative in what one wants to do and what they have in mind.
Im gonna save all the links and diagrams posted.

 

Or you can spend $850 for an aluminum tank with sump, -6feed and retun lines, regulator from year one. Its in the catalog. all aeromotive stuff.

 

Those fuel lines pop right off the rails like butter... were you using the special fuel line disconnect tools? With those its literally a 2 minute job to get the fuel rails off.

 

If all you want to do is have an "AN" style connection to make it easier to remove the rails, you can get compression type adapters for the hard lines, and just replace the plastic lines that run from under the driver's side door to the fuel rail hard lines. Earls makes the 3/8" and 5/16" compression fittings.

 

When I took diconnected the lines, it took me about 4 min of really working hard to get the main feed disconnected and then another couple to get the return.
I have just seen many rails using AN fittings that look really nice.
You were saying that some people just replace the plastic lines from under the driver side door all the way to rails? Im going to look into that.
I have not been able to trace it down or open up that wrapping but why are there three lines coming out of the strut tower?

 

There's a fuel supply line, a fuel return line, and a vapor purge line from the charcoal EVAP canister in the driver's rear fender.

Its a "shock tower"..... no struts on a 4th Gen.

 

i did this on my truck. i've tried 2 different "3/8"pipe to -6" adapters. i am using one from earls now that is a compression (like dot air line fittings). it works like a charm. unfortunately i have that piece connecting to my fuel inut (3/8" tube), a male-male connector (the type that you would run a fuel guage off of) because that's all my local speed shop had then a fp guage mounted on the feed line, then into a fuel filter, THEN into my stock GM truck fuel line ; lol it's not the most ideal setup, but it's very easy to work on being as my truck lays frame and i can;t get under there to jerk around with fittings that easily.

these are of my old setup, before i was using a comression connector. this was with a sh!tty "rubber compression" fitting from earls. i reccomend staying away from them, once again i used it because they told me it was al they make i ran -6 to where my old fuel filter was and connected there, and the return line is just spliced back in with hose clamps due to the low pressure on the return side. it has never leaked once.



i can get you better pics once i get back over there this week if you like

 

I have a spare fuel rail from when I hurt the other shrader valve, actually broke it off completely. I think I will start with that one, possibly cut off the end connecting tube and weld up the holes, then cut off the feed and return tubes and weld on AN fittings and go from there.

When you say compression fittings, you mean like that type when one connects air tools to an air hose?

I would not mind either those or thread type lines. Tonight, when Im home from work, look into the lines that run under the driverside flooring for the fuel.
Where does one buy they tool that connects AN fittings to our steel lines and also braided lines from there?

 

This is what Fred is talking about:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0019&langId=-1

My race car has the hard lines from the fuel tank up to right under the driver's seat. Than I used these to connect AN fittings and hose up the the fuelrails. All you have to do is cut the tube off right behind the lip that holds the stock connector on. Then do the same thing at the fuel rails. Jeg's doesn't show one, but Earls makes a -5AN sleeve and tube nut. You will need one of these for the return line since it is 5/16 not 3/8 like the feed line. After you put these on the return line, you will need adapter to go from -5AN to -6AN so you can use the same size hose on both. You can find the -5AN sleeves and nuts, as well as the adapter here:

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?

I have a set of stock fuel rails already set up like this. I don't need them so I'd be willing to sell them. They have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on them. I think it's an SLP, but It's been so long since I bought it, I'm not sure. If your interested, e-mail me with an offer as I have no idea what to ask for them.

 

don't go through all that work welding them on, that's not needed. you are thinking of "quick release" fittings. not those. a AN compression fitting has 4 parts to it. a collar that you slide over the hose end first, a second piece that screwes down inside the hose and collar assembly, the 3rd piece, which slides OVER the 3/8" tube and gets crushed, it's made of brass and is very tiny, and the 4th piece, the cap, which screws over the collar assembly , crushing the brass piece between the cap and collar. it's really simple when you see it.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=17005

mine is made by a different company, but it's the same thing