Does anyone know of someone in the dayton ohio area that could come to my house and help me with my car, or that I could take it to for a decent price, look at it, and possibly get it running. I just cant seem to pinpoint the problem, but I know that someone with more knowledge than I, it would be easy for them to figure out. Thanks for all of your help. Paul

 

Tell us your symtoms and maybe we can help you online

 

Well, I have tried, but its really hard to explain, so I will try again, first off the motor was built about a year and a half ago and sat until now, and my parents got a divorce, so we had to hold off for a while, and we recentally got everything put in it now. It is a 94 383 z28. Anyways the starter turns the motor over really slow for about 3-5 sec, and then it slows down and stops. The original starter burnt up because of this, and it still does it with the new one we got. The car has good fuel pressure, spark, i have checked all the plug wires to make sure that they are in the right spot, I know for sure that the rocker arms are not too tight, and when it turns over for the 5 seconds really good, it backfires and misfires, it comes close to starting, but wont fire. I am completely clueless and just cant wait to get this thing started and to the track. Thanks for anyones input. Paul

 

pull the plugs and see if any cylinders have alot of gas in them. Just recently i had a faulty fuel injector go and it was pumping the gas in the cylinder at a high rate, fuel pres was still good though. This caused the engine to be in a very RICH condition and wouldnt start. The more i tried to start, the more fuel went in and eventually it would slow down and not turn over. This would be my first guess.

 

Try removing the plugs and cranking it, maybe your static compression is too high? In any case, this will help you narrow the problem down. Are you able to crank the motor by hand?
Do a compression test at least and see what you get.

Try removing the belt to see if any of your accessories have siezed up too, maybe a mouse made a nest in your water pump or something, heh.

Are you getting 12V+ to the coil, and is the ICM good? There's about a hundred other things I could list to check, but this should keep you busy for a while.

 

That could be the problem, because i smelled the exhaust after it did what ever it does when I try to start it, and it smelt like raw fuel, what do i do when i pull the plugs to get the gas out of the cylinders? Thanks for your help Paul

 

pull the plugs and let it sit overnight. Then u need to find out which injector is causing you problems. Also, change the oil because there is probably alot of gas in there. Just let it sit overnight to let the gas dry out. Then you can put a rag in the plug holes and prime up the fuel system. The cylinder that has the faulty injector will pour gas on the rag. Replace the injector, change oil/filter, charge your battery because you probably drained it, and clean the plugs and install them then fire it up. This should be your problem. I could almost bet on it. Good luck. Tell me how it goes If im right, you owe me one J/K

 

Thanks for the help, I have checked that the coil is getting the right voltage, and also, even when the engine was on the stand, without the plugs in it, it was really hard to turn over by hand, and the injectors are brand new, but ill try that tomorrow morning, what would cause the engine to be hard to rotate just sitting on the engine stand? Thanks for all the help, Paul Also, no one knows anyone in the dayton, cincy ohio area that could look at it, or that i could tow it to, because I am at the point where i would do anything to get it started and drive it, its been a year and a half with out it.

 

Without the plugs in it should be possible to crank by hand without breaking a sweat. It's not supposed to be EASY, but about as much torque as say, an easy lug nut.

It could have been built with the clearances too tight, not enough assembly lubs, or the piston walls may have rusted in the year since it was built.

I like Jasons idea too, one cylinder full of gas will hydrolock it and cause it's own problems, but since it's hard to crank by hand it may be a more elaborate internal problem.

 

well.....i almost want to rule out my theory because you have new injectors. But since you said that the exhaust smelt like raw fuel that means its running major rich. I have a suggestion. If you have a minute to go out to your car for a second and come back then do this. Pull the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and prime the system. If fuel comes out of that line then the diaphram in the regulator is blown and you would need a new fuel pres reg. Keep posting, i will try to help u as much as possible

 

Thanks for your quick replies, i forgot to mention, I also have a new AFPR, and what would i do about the cylinder walls, if they were rusted. Paul

 

I think part of the reason that it was hard to turn over by hand is because the lack of lubrication inside the engine since it was just rebuilt. Those rings need oil to move smoothly

 

Also the starter has a hard time turning over the motor, it burnt the original one up, and the new one still doesnt like turning the motor over, the engine has prolly seen about 60 revolutions with the starter since its been in the car, it took a breaker bar to turn the engine over a little bit on the stand, but i quit trying, because i was afraid of breaking the bolt in the crank
Paul

 

Then it sounds like my original theory might be right. If there is a lot of fuel in even just 1 cylinder it wont crank easily. But try the fuel pres reg. If gas comes out, i will explan what is going on with that. But first i want to make sure thats the problem before i write a bunch of stuff

 

I will go and try that right now,thanks for all of your suggestions
Paul