Hey everyone,

Doing the current mods in the sig. Tried running the SVO 30 pounders on the stock tune, and well it looks like the cylinder walls got washed. Is there any way of getting them oiled up again without pulling the engine? We already tried squirting oil in through the spark plug hole, but that only worked for a few seconds.

I really don't want to rebuild if I don't have to, but if so it will be setup for a 200-250 shot

Chris

 

Don't understand what you're asking for here.

Is the a/f way rich? How about some numbers?? How do you know it's washing out???

The oiling for the pistons/cylinder wall comes from under the piston. Oiling clearances and reciprocating creates the "splash". So I'm just not following you here.

-Mindgame

 

It was very rich. 4 sets of spark plugs later, the general concensus is that its just way too flooded and when a compression test was done, 0 psi was shown on the gage. The needle did not even move.

The car would run for 10 seconds and die, if you kept into the pedal to keep it alive for that long. Now it just plain won't fire. We do have spark, and it is at the correct timing.

 

What are you using to tune the a/f mixture?

-Mindgame

 

have you changed the oil(since washing the walls) ?

 

Yes, oil is changed. Not tuning to anything, as it won't run for more than 10 seconds at all. Now it will not even do that.

 

You fed the thing 25% too much fuel for long enough to go through 4 sets of plugs! Sounds like you did bore ring damage and with that level of dilution I would fully expect you hurt the bearings as well. This is what happens when one mods without doing research.

At this point oil on the walls might help a compression test but will not help the motor run since that oil would burn off fast and you will be right back where you are now. Take the $100 wasted on an AFPR and instead put it towards a new bottomend and TUNING which is all you would have needed to avoid this in the first place.

 

To be frank, I wanted to run the stockers until we got to the dyno tune, but the installer said 'it will be fine'. He deals with this stuff all the time, so I believed him.

The AFPR is not a waste of money, it will be necessary to get the proper tune on it.

 

You opened up a can of worms this time. Believe, the AFPR is a waste of money, the computer will compensate for anything you do to the fuel pressure. I agree with the above poster. You need to tear it down, re ring it, new bearings, and PROFESSIONAL TUNING. Then it should be all better.

 

No matter what size you type, I can still read it.

The car was going to be dyno tuned, and with talking to the dyno tuner, he wanted an AFPR on there, so he could properly tune it.

If you don't have something to say that has a chance at helping me out, please just don't post.

 

I would find a different tuner if he wants a AFPR to tune it, it is not nessesary to change the FP from stock if the p/w , ect. is altered in the PCM

 

The installer is responsible for your motor damage and you need to find a competent dyno tuner because one that needs an AFPR must not know how to tune this car. I am sure there are applications where an AFPR is useful this is not one of them, it will do a few things, one relieve you of money, two complicate the system, and three compromise reliability. If your tuner can not get the AFR right with tuning you really need to find another tuner, maybe get a mailorder tune from Madz28 and drive the car to him near Chicago and let him do the dyno tune.

 

I guess that he wanted the AFPR so he could dial in the injector duty cycle to where he wanted it at the proper afr. I already have it, and its a good quality unit (not aeromotive). I will talk to the installer tomorrow, and see where this is at and I will update this for sure.

Chris

 

I wouldn't throw it away just yet. For one your compression guage is screwed, or not installed right. I've seen cracked blocks show 25psi before. A reading of "0" is just unbelieveable. Even with no rings your gonna show 20+ psi. Second, what did the oil look like when you checked it? Did it smell like pure gas, was it as thin as WD40? Can you put the stock injectors back in and try to run it? Is the cam degreed in correctly?

Yes you need a "good tune", but this talk of "rings and bearings are shot now" I don't buy for a second.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I did a compression test on a boat motor just last night, now my gauge bottoms out at 30psi but I got no compression reading, I would be willing to bet many gauges do not go below 30psi. On the boat motor all that is wrong is the head gasket yet it showed no compression.
As to his motor I don't think it a stretch to at least think there is damage, I mean the fact that he ran it so rich for apparently quite awhile and then it quit running indicates some sort of problem, and if it was rich enough to do bore harm it was rich enough to hurt the oil and bearings. It may be worth his time to throw the gauge on another motor of any sort just to verify it's operation though, heck lawnmower, any car in the driveway, anything that runs, screw it in and give it a spin see if the gauge registers, the LT1 should crank a higher compression than about anything else you could have and honestly will crank higher than many a race motor. This may be overly simple but you are blocking the throttle open right?