Hi I have 97 LT1 Z28 (6-speed) ,and just built a 383cid LT4 engine at thunderracing. Heads AFR 210cc competiton with 2.08/1.60 valves.Everything is installed (fuel pump,oil pump,37lb injectors etc...) and all parts are top notch quality,I spent lots of $$$.. Its a street/strip car (mostly street).. I want a daily driver sprecs for the cam.. Cam motion suggested me a hydrolic roller for me.. 237 / 245 .582 / .592 113 lsa (200 shot nitrous cam)

- Any suggestion about the cam specs???
- I want ~540-550 hp (at flywheel) is it possible with these mods??
- I will use comp pro magnum,R serie lifters,hi tech 1piece push roads. I couldn't decide which springs should I go??

Any suggestion/opinion will be great
thanks

Deniz

 

with that stuff and a 200 shot you should be looking at 600+ flywheel hp

 

Its not possible.. So you say 400hp at flywheel + 200 shot nitrous right?? hotcam kit gives 415 hp at flywheel LoL.. I hope 440-450 rwhp ,but you say 400 at flywheel, there is a huge difference man

 

ttt

 

My thoughts are that .590" lift is too much for a hydraulic roller cam, anything above .560" and I switch to solid roller. Springs for hydraulic should be 125-135 seat#/300-320# open. That 113LSA is too wide.
I have used and like the Isky 261282/294 which is .586" max lift with a 1.6 rocker - It has a LSA of 110 which is much better for your powerband. You should be running a rev kit with this cam no matter what springs you select.

 

No you asked if you could get 550 flywheel and i said it would be over 600, my car made 360 rwhp which is about 415 flywheel, ive never seen a hotcam kit make 360rwhp w/o heads, so your wrong right there. I answered your question perfectly, you will make over 550 FLYWHEEL.

 

You said with 200 shot nitrous I can get 600hp+ flywheel.. This means without nitrous 400hp+ flywheel.. I hope I will get 550hp at flywheel WITHOUT NITROUS. Misunderstanding is here..

 

ttt

 

Any Other Suggestion???

 

I'm not sure about 540-550hp but you'll make a lot of TQ with a stroker. I have the same year car and I'm thinking you'll make around what I did with those mods. I've got the high dollar heads and all that stuff and a monster of a cam in and I did 412rwhp which is like 485fwhp I believe. I also have a 12 bolt though so I'm sure I lost some power through it. I only made 366RWTQ, you'll probably see around 400 with a 383.

 

I just had my heads freshened and a custom cam from Joe Overton made for my 10 year old LPE 383. Heads are ported LT1s with 2.00/1.56 valves, cam is 220ish/230ish @ .050 with lifts in the 560ish range, stock replacement lifters, compression is 11.2:1...Only got 3/4 of a dyno run before my driveshaft broke in half, but the car made 400rwhp/430rwtq...hp was still climbing at 6100rpm when the boom happened. Tune was a rich/safe 12:1 a/f ratio base line. It should make 420rwhp/440rwtq with the right tune. This is through an A4 vig 3600 stall, 1 3/4" shorty headers and a Borla cat-back.

You may want to ask around to people like Bret Bauer (sp) and Joe Overton for cam selections. I'm a huge fan of the smaller cams and mine is proof that big power AND torque can be made with them, especially if you want daily drivability. The car has a nice choppy 850-900rpm idle and sounds nasty as hell. My lsa is a little tighter than 113 so its not great for nitrous, but you can change the specs, too. Just some stuff to think about...

--Alan

 

Ohh 485 hp at flywheel is low for such a huge payment! I hope it will be over +500hp..

 

I don't know if the 485fwhp thread was in reference to me. When I get this thing dyno tuned shortly I won't be far off of your 440rwhp goal. The M6s usually do better because the A4s suffer from converter slippage. Also be wary of high horsepower/low torque set ups. Although 383s eat up duration I think with those big valves and big cam your hp will be peaky and at higher rpms than you would like for a street car, and, more importantly, a peaky torque curve. It's been my experience that the fun factor of a street car is not so much peak hp, BUT the area under the curve. You're probably also gonna need at least 4.10s to help make up for the loss of low end torque and to help get you into the powerband sooner.

I used to beat big cammed cars at the track and on the street with my old LPE 211/219 cam running 11.70s at 118 on BFG DRs, not too shabby for a daily driver. That's why I said to look to Joe or Bret for help here. And all of the big $$$ spent isn't worth beans without a proper tune and suspension/tires, etc to put it all to the ground. Good luck with your project.

--Alan

 

thanks for this long clear post Alan..
I already ordered T56 transmission (I have A4 trans and I tought it will be better to go with T56).. With these 210cc heads (with 2.08/1.60 valves) my drivability will be bad?? (because of big air flow) I see people use mostly 2.02/1.60..I will use this car mostly on street.. (Any way I already ordered everything ,and can't change anything,but suggestions can help me)

 

I don't think your drivability will be bad, but your power will probably be moved up the rpm scale because of the increased duration and big valve size. This is where the cam selection will make or break you which is why I would check with Joe or Bret or whomever specializes in cams to make sure you get what you want. I have never used Bret, but I can tell you that Joe set me up with the perfect cam for my combo/needs. You need to be clear that it is a street car with some track use. I think that with the right cam and the right tune and 4.10 gears you should have quite a ride.

--Alan