I am planning to ditch the ES Tranny Mount and replace it with an LS1 (once I find the right one) and I noticed my engine kinda shakes just a little bit in the engine bay... so I figured, why not replacing the motor mounts while at it?.

I havent heard of any complaints on switching to the ES motor mounts and by doing so I am hopeing my engine will have less room for movement therefore allowing me to use a softer tranny mount.

So my question is,,,, what have you guys used to lift the motor? do I need special tools? How dificult is to swap the motor mounts? is there any paper guide? Online guide? Anyone?


Thanks

Marvin

 

Its pretty straight forward. You need to work with the car close to the ground (no lift). First you want to jack up the car high enough to get under there comfortably. Then take another jack, preferably with a piece of wood to deaden the pressure. Then "I" would jack up on the transmission where it meets the rear main just until you have slight pressure on the engine. Jacking up on the tranny saves the oil pan gasket Then unbolt the old mounts (two obviously). Raise the jack a little more to remove the old mounts. It isn't too hard, requires a little maneuvering. Then place new ones, lower engine into place and bolt up. Thats really about. it. One hour job tops with 5 minute beer break

 

Ha!! Thats exactly what I did when I was replacing the tranny mount!!! Sounds like I will do the Tranny mount and engine mounts on the same shot.

Do I get a second Beer brake?


Thank you.....


Marvin

 

LOL

I dropped the crossmember when I did my tranny mount. It seemed to be easier being that I was on a lift. I'd rather stand up straight and take out 6 bolts instead of sprawled out on the ground

 

What kind of mounts should I use? I can get the regular mounts from AutoZone for $18 a piece with a lifetime warranty. Is that ok, or should I spend the extra $$ on poly mounts?

 

come on spend the extra money on the polys

Live a little

 

FYI, the engine might not line up perfectly with the poly motor mounts. When I replaced mine, I did the passenger side first, then tightened everything down on that side. Then I did the driver's side, and I could NOT get the thru bolt to line up and go in. I finally had to loosen EVERYTHING, the part that mounts to the K-member and the part that mounts to the engine, on both sides to get the long thru bolt in. Then I gradually tightened everything back down.

It still wasn't hard, but I wanted you to know things might not just fall into place perfectly.

Also, if you go with the poly mounts, you'll have to reuse the metal clamshell cases that the factory mounts are in. It's pretty simple, just drill out the rivets on them and swap out the 'guts'. I can't remember what size drill bits they would use.

 

Does anyone have a picture of the mounts underneath the car. Im just not sure where they are and also where does the tranny meet the rear main? is that before the trans pan or after? So I can jack it up a little there and be able to replace the 3 mounts at one time?

 

yes you can do all three at the same time. I am talking about the bell housing on the tranny. The motor mounts are next to impossible to miss. One on each side. Bolt to the frame.

 

Thanks. Im hoping thats my problem, it seems that lately when I start the car I feel a little vibration under the floor board and also when going over bumps, and sometimes during shifts. Should I go ahead and buy them and install this weekend, or check them first? The car has 115K and probably have never been replaced.

 

I think you are answering you own question here

If you have the money, go get the parts and you will gain a little peace of mind. Also you will more than likely not have to deal with it again for the life of your vehicle.

If this doesn't fix it then more than likely you need to check you exhaust hangers and such. In fact, you should do that anyway.

It should be a nice weekend project.

 

Did anyone said "Drilling?" Reminded me of my ex-g/f's face when she found out what I meant when I said I had to do a little "drilling"

God Dang it drilling sounds like I am gonna be down there for a while. Me cheap bastard got me a 6 volt drill. Will prog have to recharge it like 6 times for the whole swap

I dont have a garage so all the work is done on the good ol side street (sucks) People aproach me askin me if I am mechanic
Some chick even gave me her busines card and asked me if I could take a look at her car. (Mustve been all the grease on my hair ewwwwww )


I think I best go buy a real mans drill.


Marvin

 

Hey mental ever get the mounts swapped? How hard was it.. just curious.

 

"Hey mental ever get the mounts swapped? How hard was it.. just curious."

Actually I am doing it on Dec 2nd through dec 8th. I finally got time off and some extra cash. I am replacing Opty, Water Pump, Timing cover gaskets (its oily downthere) Do the intake Manifold leak fix, Scorpions RRs, Beehive Ovate valve springs and other minor stuff.

Time and extra cash permiting I may do the Delteq instead of the New Opty. Mine has worked fine for the past 147k miles but I have had a tiny tiny misfire...(engine is not perfectly smooth anymore) at idle. Havent really decided to go with delteq since I have had such good luck with my opty but I also have heard horror stories from other guys and I cant seem to find the common denominator as for why their optys are goind south. Perhaps I take a little time to read posts and figure out how many guys with MSD ignitions are replacing optys and how many non MSD owners suffer the same problem.

I seriously wish the delted was a bit cheaper. I guess my deciding factor will be the price of those new MSD... Multi-spark Coils. I would love to have a deltec driving 4 or 8 multi-spark coils... Could not get any better that that I think

Anyway I will post again when I am done with the motor mounts.

Marvin

 

What exactly are the benefits of poly mounts?