I need more opinions. Last night I poured in another bottle of torco fuel addative to less than half a tank a fuel which half a tank is 8-10 gallons I think. According to the torco instructions that shouldve been enough to equal 100+ octane. At first it seemed like the knock had went away or at least not as much but once I got on it I still got the same 5.0 degrees of knock. Only difference between now is with the addative I dont see knock as fast as I see it without the addative. It's starting to become confusing for me. What's confusing is why does the addative seem to help a little then show the same amount of knock, mabey 1 degree less than without the addative? If it still had the same amount knock I would say false knock but it seems to help which in the end leads me to think there is a lot false knock and mabey 1-1.5 degrees of real knock. What do you guys think?

 

update


I put re filled the tank without octane booster and now I see at random .5 - 2.5 at part through part throttle and 5.0-6.0 at 95%. All I want to know is from what Ive wrote does anyone think it's still false knock or real?

 

sorry to go off topic, but how are u measuring knock, u got a sesnor? and if so how much and where do i get them

 

I have a Scanmaster. All cars should have it, it's great.

 

yes indeed diagnostic scanners are great, i have a snap-on portable unit. but if you want to make sure its not real knock retard, take the sensor out wrap the threads in a couple layers of teflon then re-install it. if the knock goes down a little bit then its false knock

 

what does it say that the torco fuel additive boost the octane to ? how many points? if you are seeing a differnce when adding octane it is probably not false knock . also what comp ratio are you at ? and what dynamic c/r ? and what octane are you blending with the additive?

 

With 10 gallons of fuel using 93 octane it should be 107. I'm using something like 89 mabey 91 octane. So I figure it's around 103 with the addative. Even with the addative I still see the same amount of knock just it comes later, and not at the lower rpms like it does without. My comp ratio I believe is in the low 12's. I'm not sure what my dcr and scr is. I need to figure that out today.

 

By wrapping the threads with teflon tape, you are basically desensitizing the sensor. So either way, if it is false or real knock, it should go down with this method.

 

if it was reinstalled without doing this step in the engine rebuild, it will be alot more sensitive

 

The static CR is 12.23:1, with 5 cc pistons, a 0.039" gasket and assuming 55 cc chambers on the resurfaced AFR heads.
The IVC at 74 deg ABDC so that should put the DCR at 9.01:1.

 

Put some 110/112 race fuel in it when the tank is very low.
There could be a number of things causing it but fuel will tell ya if its real knock.

 

I was just about to P.M ya

 

the octane boost you are blending with your fuel probably only boost 3 to 7 points ( from 93 to 93.3 or 93.7) not going to make a lot of differnce. if your sc is 12.2 and the dcr is 9.01, try to get some toluene ( 114 octane) you can get a gallon from a paint store for like $12 , mix 1 gal of toluene to 2 gal of 93 to have 100 octane, try this it should not have any( knock) with this mixture, if it does it is false knock. if you cant find toluene get some xylene(117 octane) I've seen it at home depot, but add 3 oz of atf fluid to lube the fuel system( cause xylene is a little corossive to rubber seals) and the thing with putting teflon around the knock sensor can only help you.