ANOTHER head stud sealing question
Yes, I searched but my question is specific.
I have tried the following with dismal failure: ARP Thread Sealant Time to failure: 1 hour. Teflon tape Time to failure: 600 miles Yes proper prep was performed including chasing threads and cleaning with solvent (block and studs) to remove excess oil. I want a solution that can be had while the heads are still on. I have heard mixed results on Permatex #2 so please make other suggestions. I have no problem going with silicone gasket making materials because sealing these are more of a priority than worrying about residual dried silicone upon stud removal someday. These heads will be removed someday but probably not for a few seasons. |
Well I only see two choices given the requirements. Put a can of stop leak in the system. YUK!!:no: Or remove each stud, one at a time, and coat with sealent of your choice.
I know this isn't any help but I had NO problems with the "liquid Teflon" sealent that's recommended. Are you sure the water is coming from around the threads?? |
Originally Posted by Z28SORR
(Post 5860424)
Well I only see two choices given the requirements. Put a can of stop leak in the system. YUK!!:no: Or remove each stud, one at a time, and coat with sealent of your choice.
I know this isn't any help but I had NO problems with the "liquid Teflon" sealent that's recommended. Are you sure the water is coming from around the threads?? Yes definitely around the threads it is leaking there is no doubt. |
You MUST drain some of the coolent from the block!!!!! Then use Permatex N 2BR on the CLEAN bolts and dry block holes. That should STOP your leak...
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When the block was machined did they use a tq. plate with studs instead of bolts? I ran head studs on my old set-up but got tired of the leaks. The only time I have seen non-leaking studs on an lt1 car is when they used studs on the tq. plate.
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Originally Posted by 94TEALz
(Post 5861159)
When the block was machined did they use a tq. plate with studs instead of bolts? I ran head studs on my old set-up but got tired of the leaks. The only time I have seen non-leaking studs on an lt1 car is when they used studs on the tq. plate.
I think I will just run that leak stop stuff permanently after I get this next round of Permatex 2 in. No other way to be safe as I can tell. |
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm
http://www.permatex.com/images/Displ...otos/59235.jpg DO NOT USE PERMATEX #2 for sealing head bolts or studs....it is NOT a thread sealant. |
Also, an amazing sealer is Locktite 545 hydraulic sealer but I never used it on an engine head application - good stuff, though.
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When the block was machined did they use a tq. plate with studs instead of bolts? I ran head studs on my old set-up but got tired of the leaks. The only time I have seen non-leaking studs on an lt1 car is when they used studs on the tq. plate. -Scott. |
Why would a stud need to be sealed differently than a bolt? Both are going into water passages.
Thanks, |
Originally Posted by ACE1252
(Post 5861556)
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm
http://www.permatex.com/images/Displ...otos/59235.jpg DO NOT USE PERMATEX #2 for sealing head bolts or studs....it is NOT a thread sealant. Got it! |
Originally Posted by ACE1252
(Post 5861556)
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm
http://www.permatex.com/images/Displ...otos/59235.jpg DO NOT USE PERMATEX #2 for sealing head bolts or studs....it is NOT a thread sealant. |
There is only one thing to watch out for with the permatex. I once got a tube of that stuff that was really thin and watery. The contents of the tube should be a good consistency.......like a good hand lotion or hand cleaner. If it's really thin and watery, don't use it, get another tube.
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