Its about this block cleaning deal before putting my new heads on. I've read too many stories about people doing cam/heads swaps, than getting a spun bearing shortly afterwards.

Lloyd recommended to use sandpaper on a block of wood and then to clean the block with acetone or rubbing alcohol before assembly. But I don't understand how to do this with all my paper towels blocking the coolant passages and bolt threads. I don't really want to get debris/particles in my coolant system.

And then there's the whole deal with the lifter valley being open and I don't feel like getting all kinds of crap in there, while working on my heads.

Any suggestions/comments?

 

Whenever I've put heads on, that's what I have done. It's obvously kinda tedious, but just make sure that you don't put too much of the paper towel down there and get it stuck. Also, you might want to oil the towel so that particles will stick to it easier. Good luck.

 

Right before you get ready to bolt the heads on wipe the mating surfaces with acetone. I just layed a clean trash bag in the valley.

Im assuming that the mating surfaces are allready clean and striaght due to block decking and head surfacing....the acetone is just to remove oil residues and small particals.

 

When I did the heads/cam, I got four cans of that berryman chemtool parts cleaner in the aerosol can and hosed the lifter valley down first when I got it all apart. Then I covered it with a towel, sprayed the block deck down and started scraping with a razor blade. Keep spraying the cleaner on there as much as needed.

 

am i gonna have to do this when just for replacing a blown head gasket?

 

Probably. You want a clean surface for the gaskets to adhere to.

 

Definitely. Don't want to leave any mess on the block surface or it may mess up the sealing with the new gaskets.

 

 

I clean the lifter valley then plug all the drain back holes and then lay a clean shoptowel over the liftervalley, while cleaning the head to block gasket surface of the block you can tape the towel down in the lifter valley so you dont accidently move it and get trash in there. I allways use a flat block with sandpaper to clean the surface and then use a clean headbolt to clean the threads. A tap used over and over can actually wear out the treads of the headbolts making your torque values off. I put the gasket on dry after wiping the block down with an oily rag then spray the oil residue off with chemtool.

 

Not so sure I agree with the sandpaper, either...
Especially after all the debate on here about ScotchBrite, etc..
I sure would'nt want sandpaper grit in the bore[or lifter gallery]
I suppose if REAL careful, it'd be OK..
If it doesn't NEED 'sanding', I wouldn't DO it tho..

 

NNNOOOOOOOO!!! No sandpaper!
If sanding these surfaces has become standard practice I'm not suprised that people are spinning bearings. The surface just has to be clean, not shiny. Use a nonmetalic scrapper(plastic) and brush.

Just my opinion, it's your engine.

 

Yea, I definitely don't want to get sandpaper grits in the motor. Not sure one what steps I'm gonna use though. Any more suggestions.

 

A thought, have you ever seen scotchbrite when you use it alot, it comes apart as well.
I use the sandpaper and after I clean the gasket surface as I said, I clean the surfaces with a clean oily rag, this includes the moving the cylender to the topcleanin the piston top, then moving it back to the bottom to get any residue pushed up by the ring. If you work causiosly with the sandpaper it wont break apart. but whatever you feel comfortable with, just be sure to be clean.

 

What I am rather amazed at is Lloyd recommending this.. maybe he'll clarify it here..
[probably means a bare stripped out block possibly? that's about the only time I would think of doing it]

 

I would never recommend sand paper. No way.

I would use a razor blade and elbow grease. cover up the lifter valley and bores with shop rags. Use acetone and a razor blade and take your time.