I posted yesterday about bit stripped balancer threads and a hub installer... From what I got the best way to get the hub on the crank is to thread in a all thread rod and use a washer/bearing and a nut to push it onto the crank. As of right now i've pretty much called or been to every single place in this area (and I live in the suburbs of chicago, so thats a lot of places) and the only thing I have found in threaded rods is a 7/16-14 rod (course threads). Absolutely no one carries a 7/16-20 (fine thread) rod. (to come to think of it I couldn't find any size threaded rod in a fine thread)...

Is there somewhere online I might be able to buy one of these threaded rods in this size? I'd be willing to wait a bit to get it through shipping if anyone can find one of these, because I haven't had to much luck with trying to find somewhere that would ship out just one threaded rod in that size.. Anyone know for sure if they even make it?

 

All thread would be nice, but you don't neeeeed it, just get a longer bolt! It will be much easier to find a longer bolt than the correct thread allthread rod.

If the bolt you get is too long that the threads will bottom out in the crank, just add spacers. You just need the longer bolt (or allthread) to get the balancer started, then the stock bolt will have enough thread engagement.

I know this didn't directly answer the question you posted, but I think your going to spend a lot of time searching for the allthread you don't need.

If you really feel you need it, try mcmaster carr, mscdirect.com, and grainger; they are the big 3 industrial suppliers and would be the first place i'd look. The longer bolt from my local hardware store worked fine....

Good luck,
Brent

 

www.mcmaster.com has it, part #92580A110

 

I really kinda want to try and avoid using the crank threads to pull the hub on the crank now that i've already stripped the first 4 threads on there.

What exactly do use to cut down a steel rod like this?.... Will a grinding wheel work?

 

go to a machine shop and have them make one for you.
any competant machinist with a lathe can make one, then have them case harden it and viola a grade 8+ threaded specialty tool.

 

A harmonic balancer installation tool works really well. I just put my hub on tonight and it was much better than the threaded rod, especially since it has a bearing that comes with it for the nut to ride on. Free rental from Auto Zone. I did have to buy some washers to get the nut out far enough from the inside of the hub to get a wrench on it.

Oh yeah, Fastenal can get the threaded rod too. Part 47672.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...l.ex?sku=47672

Looks like there's several of them in the Chicago area. That's where I bought mine at (and then ended up not using it).

 

It's a really bad idea to use a bolt of any length to pull the hub on. If you want to risk your crank threads, then go ahead.

If you use an all thread rod, get one that is at least grade 8 (with accompanying nut).

 

Can you possibly take a picture or give a more thorough explaination of how you put this together and what you did to make that autozone harmonic balancer installation tool work for you??? I rented the harmonic balancer installation tool before I tried using the hub bolt and stripping the threads and couldn't get it too work.. maybe you ended up with a different kit than I did; the one I got had these thread inserts peice (for the size of balancer bolt you have, it was male threaded on one side and female threaded to the other side) that you put into this wide hollow rod and then a bolt that went through the rod and screwed into the female part of that insert and after that you were suppose to get the male part of the thread through the hub that was placed onto the crankshaft and then thread the male part of the insert into the crank and then put this large bearing and nut over the hollow rod and that would push the hub onto the crankshaft... The problem was the male part of the thread insert wasn't even long enough to get through the hub so that it could screw into the crank threads. The kit that I rented was somewhat similair to this (and the small part you see on the end was about equivilent to the length of the threads that are suppose to get through the hub and screw into the crankshaft):
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Tools/images/61741.jpg

How exactly did you make this work for you???

Sweet deal, looks like there is a branch less than a couple miles from my house.. hopefully someone on here will reply to how to make the balancer install tool work for my car so I won't even need to use this though..

 

That's pretty much the same tool I used. Maybe the one I used had a longer piece to make it to the crank. I actually did take pictures last night but they're on my camera at home, I'll try and get them this evening.

Just keep in mind that these kits still only have about 1/2" - 3/4" of thread that goes into the crank. It worked okay for me, but I was installing a new ATI hub that was just honed onto a new crank, so it went on without excessive force.

 

hmm... maybe that's what it was, it sounds like you got that hub on most of the way by hand and the space between the front of the hub (where the bolt goes) and the crank threads are significantly smaller, allowing a shorter bolt to go all the way through it and into the crank threads. On my car the hub barely even goes on by hand, it actually takes quite a bit of work to even get the hub on enough for the threads on the balancer bolt to just barely thread into the crank, and the balancer bolt is a lot longer than that 3/4" male insert peice that is suppose to make it from the hub to the crank threads (which are like 4 inches away).