ah crap
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 20
From: FL
ah crap
well lets see i ripped apart my friends LT 1 last weekend and heres the problems so far...
there is about an inch of crap on the bottom of the lifter valley, the pistons are frozen in place, the bolt that holds that pulley on the end of the crank broke off... i took at the mains off, and 5 pistons out, (i cant turn the crank so the other 3 are stuck until i figure our how to turn to crank...) and the bearings look like new.. the crank should be cut becasue it has scratches in it that are deep enough to catch my fingre nails when i drag it across. i figure that the engine is going to have to be bored out because the cylinder walls are pretty bad looking..
if any one wants pictures i can take them tonight or over the weekend.. how can i get that bolt out of the crank? with all the mains off and the rear main seal off i still cant get the crank to turn, i tryed using a wheel puller to take off the pulley, but it bent the bolts... what should i do?
well thanks for any help...
-neil
there is about an inch of crap on the bottom of the lifter valley, the pistons are frozen in place, the bolt that holds that pulley on the end of the crank broke off... i took at the mains off, and 5 pistons out, (i cant turn the crank so the other 3 are stuck until i figure our how to turn to crank...) and the bearings look like new.. the crank should be cut becasue it has scratches in it that are deep enough to catch my fingre nails when i drag it across. i figure that the engine is going to have to be bored out because the cylinder walls are pretty bad looking..
if any one wants pictures i can take them tonight or over the weekend.. how can i get that bolt out of the crank? with all the mains off and the rear main seal off i still cant get the crank to turn, i tryed using a wheel puller to take off the pulley, but it bent the bolts... what should i do?
well thanks for any help...
-neil
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 327
From: Fairmount, GA
Buy a new crank. I got a brand new nodular iron Eagle crank off of eBay for about $150. Of course, the whole rotating assembly has to be balanced by a machine shop if a regular 1 peice rear main seal crank is used.
-OR-
You could always sit on a damp floor and drill out the Grade 8 steel crank bolt for hours. This is not the most enjoyable thing. And then there is always the risk that when you're done you messed up the threads so badly the crank is not salvagable. And I'm not so sure that scratches on the crank journals that are deep enough to grab your finger nails can be turned out. They recommend turning a cast iron 350 crank NO MORE than .010 before it begins to lose its strength.
BTW - to pull the crank pulley, use a very long GRADE 8 bolt. It will not bend. However, for the time being, you can always stick a bolt in one of the offset bolt holes on the balancer hub to turn the crank.
-OR-
You could always sit on a damp floor and drill out the Grade 8 steel crank bolt for hours. This is not the most enjoyable thing. And then there is always the risk that when you're done you messed up the threads so badly the crank is not salvagable. And I'm not so sure that scratches on the crank journals that are deep enough to grab your finger nails can be turned out. They recommend turning a cast iron 350 crank NO MORE than .010 before it begins to lose its strength.
BTW - to pull the crank pulley, use a very long GRADE 8 bolt. It will not bend. However, for the time being, you can always stick a bolt in one of the offset bolt holes on the balancer hub to turn the crank.
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