Ok here is the thing. I have a 95 Camaro Z28 and I blowed up the engine and I need to rebuild it. This is no longer my only car so I can let it sit until I have all the work done to it. (As money comes in) My question is what do you experienced people on here think of it, and will it get me what I want ? My ultimate goal is to go mid 11's n/a and run about a 150 (maybe a little more, 200 at the most) shot of N2O occasionaly at the strip. I don't care about gas milage but would like for it to be streetable as it will be driven mostly on the street. So 93 octane (n/a anyhow) and minor inconveniences don't bother me ie. cam surge, excessive noise.

Anyhow this is what I'm thinking:

Eagle cast steel crank - 3.75 stroke
Eagle SIR I beam rods - 5.7 length for the N2O
SRP or Mahle flat top forged pistons w/ floating pins
LT4 Intake port matched to the heads
LT4 Heads with work done by Lloyd Elliot
1.6 Roller Rockers
Comp "R" series lifters
I want to stay with a Hyd. roller cam, probably the LE3 ?
Hooker Long tubes
Custom Y-pipe
58mm throttle body
Rebuilt A4 trans
Yank or PI 3000 stahl conv.
Moser 9" rear end with 3.73 gears
And all the traction goodies to support (BMR)

So will all this hold up to the N2O ? How streetable will this be ? Anything you guys would change ? Any more info needed ? Thanks a bunch !!

Aglosa
95 Camaro Z28

 

I'm no expert engine builder but everything that you have listed there looks pretty darned good to me. The only thing I would question would be the crank, and I have a seperate post of my own about that. If you dont go with the LE3 cam, I would get a custom grind to compliment your set up. Make sure you have all the flow #'s and information when you call someone on that. It will make it easier for them to give you good advise and an even better cam !

L8R

 

if you not going to touch the mains then I would go with a cast crank. I am not sure if your rods are forged but if not find some that are. The heads, if you go with le3 porting you should have some pretty good numbers. So the cam you use can be an all out n/a, making 435-415rwhp depending on tuning. But if you want it to be more nitrous friendly then you would be giving up 10-15hp. As far as being streetable something in the cc306 range won't be bad in a 383, especially if you have a good tune.
I am not an expert but what you have listed looks good to me. goodluck / have fun

 

This is just me, but i would take the revs of a 355 over the grunt of a 383...but to each his own. Other wise your list looks good and the le3 heads espesially with lt4 castings should be able to get you to do low 11s maybe even a high 10 n/a if traction and weather are good.

Good Luck
James

 

I am going to be using the Eagle splayed mains as well. I have rebuilt several engines in the past but I've never built a 383 for myself. And I don't mind giving up 10 - 15 hp for an extra 200 ! I was just wondering if everything here will hold up to the juice for a while.

Thanks for the replies !

Aglosa

 

It would only cost around 100.00 extra to go with the h-beam rods instead of the I beam rods. Most engine builders I have talked to said that the I beams don't offer much over the stock rods. Everything else looks good though.

 

There is no need for H-beams....they can be alittle extra insurance for a real high output setup...but I don't think they are necessary. Eagle I beams, and Scat I beams are def a good deal stronger than stock. Your bottom end is only as strong as the wekaest part. This is kinda a mismatched setup IMO. You are gonna run splayed caps with a cast crank...hmmm. IMO you can go one of 2 ways here. 1. you can runs splayed caps, a good forged crank, either a scat 4340 I beam, or eagle 4340 H beam, and forged pistons...or you can do choice 2. either stud the 2 bolt mains, or convert to plain 4 bolt...and run a cast crank, I beam, and forged pistons. Just pick which suits you best. But there is no sense in running splayed caps, cast crank, h beams, and forged pistons.

 

89385formula, I had no intentions on running forged H beams with the cast crank. My very 1st post said that I was going to go with the Eagle cast steel crank with the Eagle I beam rods. The reason I was thinking of going with the splayed mains was because even if I did the plain 4 bolt I would still have to have the machine work involved right ? So why not spend $90 for the splayed caps and have extra insurance ? Besides, if I should ever go completely forged down the road, it will already be done. Make sense ? If I'm still on the wrong track, please feel free to respond.

Aglosa

 

I understand that you planned on running I beams, cast crank, forged pistons...That is a good build right now. I was refering to the other that stated that you needed h beams...I don't believe that. I think thats fine to run splayed caps...I was just saying how I would do it. Its all preference really. FYI, I am also getting ready to build my own 355...I am doign virtually doing the same thing as you. I am gonna run a GM stock, or cast crank, studded mains, I beams, and Mahle pistons. I will also be spray too, probably not a 200 tho.

Kyle

 

Oh ok, i see now. If the $$ keeps coming like it has been, I plan on doing a 2 stage set up with a 75 shot on a throttle body spray bar being the 1st stage and probably a 125 - 150 shot with a direct port fogger for the 2nd. It'll be fun !

Aglosa