advice about buying an lt
advice about buying an lt
hey guys, i am thinking about buying a 93 lt1 camaro. not sure how many miles. i have not seen the car in person or anything either. (i will be going friday) he said the car has a blown head gasket on his post. so he is selling for 1500. since i have had an lt1 before, i can fix it pretty easly. but when i talked to him on the phone, he said that he took it to a shop and right away they said it was a pushrod. see, but i asked him if the car smoke, he said no. all he said was there was ticking on the passanger side head area. so i am thinking it could be a lifter, pushrod, injector, or plug. he also said that his girl was driving it when this happened and the car shut off. i am not sure if a head gasket blowing would do that. so, what i wanted to know was, do you guys think i sould buy this car? i have worked on lt1s before and ill have about 500 to fix it right now. let me know what you guys think.
the car comes with lt4 heads (which i am going to conferm when i see the car) and a duel exhaust x pipe before the axle. oh, also, the hood and fender is primered black.
the car comes with lt4 heads (which i am going to conferm when i see the car) and a duel exhaust x pipe before the axle. oh, also, the hood and fender is primered black.
If you want a "project car" and are planning on restoring and improving the power train, then by all means, why not? It's generally the platform (car w/o engine) that costs the most to replace. But if this is the case, then don't worry about the engine's condition---it is probably ready for a rebuild anyway.
You might be able to get it for less, or maybe have him include some other stuff he has that you can use, even if not auto related.
I would be curious how it got Lt4 heads or if he is not telling the truth about that. If they are lt4s and are stock, you will have a little more meat in the heads for porting. How about the Lt4 intake? Anyway, as I mention, if the platform is in good condition and you have the time and desire to rebuild a nice performance car, then go for it. I would take a reallly good look at the body and uniframe to see if there is any damage. If some of the body is primed, it has probably been wrecked. And if it has been wrecked, it would be a waste of time and money to mess with it at all. You can probably find a really good body---and maybe even a so so engine for around the same cost elsewhere if you want one and look around. JMHO
You might be able to get it for less, or maybe have him include some other stuff he has that you can use, even if not auto related.
I would be curious how it got Lt4 heads or if he is not telling the truth about that. If they are lt4s and are stock, you will have a little more meat in the heads for porting. How about the Lt4 intake? Anyway, as I mention, if the platform is in good condition and you have the time and desire to rebuild a nice performance car, then go for it. I would take a reallly good look at the body and uniframe to see if there is any damage. If some of the body is primed, it has probably been wrecked. And if it has been wrecked, it would be a waste of time and money to mess with it at all. You can probably find a really good body---and maybe even a so so engine for around the same cost elsewhere if you want one and look around. JMHO
i was wondering about the lt4 heads too. dont you have to also have an lt4 intake? that is the only reason i dont think the heads are lt4. when i asked about the intake, he said that he had bought the car at a dealer and they said it came with it. so, i dunno.
when i asked if i could test drive it, he said that would be fine but that he recomends that i tow it home. so i am kinda worried that the damage in in the bottom end. (i do want to drive it a lil cuz oh how i miss my camaro :-( )
when i asked if i could test drive it, he said that would be fine but that he recomends that i tow it home. so i am kinda worried that the damage in in the bottom end. (i do want to drive it a lil cuz oh how i miss my camaro :-( )
My guess is that it is a POS. If he bought from a "used car" dealer, you can bet that they didn't know a damn thing about it, so the idea that it has lt4 heads is probably BS. I believe that I would just pass on this one if you have any idea of actually driving it without some major surgery.
If you like F Bodies, there are plenty of them around and I'm sure that you can locate one that is in better condition----afterall, if you are willinng to pay 1500 for a car that you know is going to take mucho denaro to fix, then why not use the money to buy something that you can actually drive (and not have to paint). You could probaly get a new car with fewer miles and no body damage----if you have to tow the damn thing to get it home, that alone should clue you in on the real condition of the power train.
Just say thanks, but no thanks, and move on. JMHO
If you like F Bodies, there are plenty of them around and I'm sure that you can locate one that is in better condition----afterall, if you are willinng to pay 1500 for a car that you know is going to take mucho denaro to fix, then why not use the money to buy something that you can actually drive (and not have to paint). You could probaly get a new car with fewer miles and no body damage----if you have to tow the damn thing to get it home, that alone should clue you in on the real condition of the power train.
Just say thanks, but no thanks, and move on. JMHO
yea, your probably right buddy. i was on the edge about this even before i posted. i am still going to see what condition the car is in and who knows, maybe i can get the car for 1000 and just build a 383. but i figured that something has to be F*ed up in the internals for him to not want me to drive it home. but we will see. if anything ill try to record a clip of the car with my phone and post it up here so yall can see it. but at 1000 bucks, i think ill take it.
thanks alot bubba for the advice.
thanks alot bubba for the advice.
well, i went to go test drive the car. i dont think its a head gasket or even anything to do with the bottom end. i really think the noise is a loose rocker arm. i know for sure that the noise is coming from the passenger side valve cover right behind the alternator. it was a pretty loud sound. its was not really a tick, it was more of a clank. but anyway, i could tell he didnt know much about camaros so i made it sound worst than it seemed. so he lowered the price to 1200. do you guys think i should go for it? the car no doubt needs work. the body is in ok shape other than the front passenger fender. i would need to replace it. oh, and i have no idea what the perivous owner did, but the coolant hoses are all F*ed up. (the ones around the throttle body and intake.) i would have to buy some new ones. so what do yall think?
also, is there anything wrond with 93 camaros?? just wondering becasue alot of parts go from 94 to 97. they totally skip 93. why is that?
also, is there anything wrond with 93 camaros?? just wondering becasue alot of parts go from 94 to 97. they totally skip 93. why is that?
As I mentioned before, it must be assumed that the motor may need a complete rebuild. So assuming that, you need to base your decision to buy the car (1) and to pay x $$ (2).
That is: If you want the car and believe it is worth a certain amount assuming the engine is shot AND that the body and uniframe is not in good shape, then buy it. If you are not in a position to do a complete rebuild or replace the engine, or repair any structual damage the car may have suffered, then pass on it.
When you get your mind set on something, the emotions often outweigh common sense. So get rid of the emotional part and use your head----there are many cars available that will meet your needs.
Bottom line: if the bearings are shot or some other catastropic failure has occured (which is probably the case, since the buyer says he doesn't know or is obviously not willing to say) and you buy the car (or even take it for free) ask yourself if you will be able to actually drive the car before it is fixed or whether it is just going to sit in your font yard, red neck style.
That is: If you want the car and believe it is worth a certain amount assuming the engine is shot AND that the body and uniframe is not in good shape, then buy it. If you are not in a position to do a complete rebuild or replace the engine, or repair any structual damage the car may have suffered, then pass on it.
When you get your mind set on something, the emotions often outweigh common sense. So get rid of the emotional part and use your head----there are many cars available that will meet your needs.
Bottom line: if the bearings are shot or some other catastropic failure has occured (which is probably the case, since the buyer says he doesn't know or is obviously not willing to say) and you buy the car (or even take it for free) ask yourself if you will be able to actually drive the car before it is fixed or whether it is just going to sit in your font yard, red neck style.
As I mentioned before, it must be assumed that the motor may need a complete rebuild. So assuming that, you need to base your decision to buy the car (1) and to pay x $$ (2).
That is: If you want the car and believe it is worth a certain amount assuming the engine is shot AND that the body and uniframe is not in good shape, then buy it. If you are not in a position to do a complete rebuild or replace the engine, or repair any structual damage the car may have suffered, then pass on it.
When you get your mind set on something, the emotions often outweigh common sense. So get rid of the emotional part and use your head----there are many cars available that will meet your needs.
Bottom line: if the bearings are shot or some other catastropic failure has occured (which is probably the case, since the buyer says he doesn't know or is obviously not willing to say) and you buy the car (or even take it for free) ask yourself if you will be able to actually drive the car before it is fixed or whether it is just going to sit in your font yard, red neck style.
That is: If you want the car and believe it is worth a certain amount assuming the engine is shot AND that the body and uniframe is not in good shape, then buy it. If you are not in a position to do a complete rebuild or replace the engine, or repair any structual damage the car may have suffered, then pass on it.
When you get your mind set on something, the emotions often outweigh common sense. So get rid of the emotional part and use your head----there are many cars available that will meet your needs.
Bottom line: if the bearings are shot or some other catastropic failure has occured (which is probably the case, since the buyer says he doesn't know or is obviously not willing to say) and you buy the car (or even take it for free) ask yourself if you will be able to actually drive the car before it is fixed or whether it is just going to sit in your font yard, red neck style.
but yah, that is great advice, and your right, sometimes emotions cloud whats really the right choice. it sucks once having an lt1, and not having one. (i think that makes sence) i just love to drive espesually when you have such a powerful, fun car.
Probably nothing wrong with a 93, but why not go for a 94-97? BTW, I understand your eagerness to get behind the wheel, but if the only way you are going to do that is to have someone tow you around town, or maybe you can just sit in the driveway and go " VROOM" " VROOM" "VROOM"----not going to be much of a SOP experience, IMHO.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PublicEnemy1
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
2
Apr 7, 2015 12:21 PM



