What are the advantages, even though I think I know most of them, but most importantly the disadvantages to switching to a solid roller setup. Someone told me that you have to adjust the rockers every couple weeks or so with a solid setup, is that true? And is it a huge gain to go from hydraulic to solid when using say a 236/242 duration cam on a stroker motor?

 

the disadvantage is it is noisy as hell. As long as you adjust them PROPERLY and set the lash hot with a feeler gauge and lock them with polylocks you should be all set. I used a solid for years but got tired of the noise. The advantage is you can set the lash and change the lift by a few thousanths for conditions tighter the lash more low rpm, the looser the more higher rpm e.t.c Looser by 1 or 2 thousandths not 5 or 6!!!!

 

So you are saying that there is only a one time adjustment as long as you use polylocks then? And the only disadvantage you can think of is the noise, like what kind of noise, like gear drive, or gear drive plus blower whine, or more than that?

 

Not even close to gear whine, you get clack clack clack like your rocker arms are loose when they never are!!! Have you ever had a sticky lifter that ticked? times that by 5 and you have solid roller lifters!!

 

Oh, I wasnt comparing the actual noise to gear whine, I just meant the loudness. I understand now, it is quite loud then. Any other opinions?

 

You're also going to need a low-mount alternator relocation kit, because with solid roller rocker arms, they won't clear the alternator/valve cover. You'll need taller valve covers too.

 

Where does the alternator go to? Can it go in place of the AC compresssor somehow? Also what is the difference between solid rockers and regular? Maybe you mean since there is increased lift they change.

I would love to get that alternator somewhere else so valve cover removal is a 2 minute job instead of a 30 minute on the passenger side.

 

RamAir is right about the low-mount alternator IF you decide to use shaft rockers. It isn't absolutely essential but that makes adjustments 1,000 times easy and they last longer. No, there is no one-time adjustment of solids...the advantage to poly-locks is that some people can go 3-5K miles. As for the noise you can reduce what you hear somewhat by using plasic valve covers, using proper adjustment techniques, and leaving the insulation we all tear off the underside of the hood--on. Now, for a disadvantage that nobody else has mentioned so far: spring life. depending on how radical your ramp speed on the set up is, your spring life will be dramatically reduced. If you want to know exactly what spring life is, it's best to speak to the cam manufacturer about your specific application. Because of the ramp speeds, you'll also have to use much higher pressure springs which does add to the power-losses associated with valvetrain operation.
Now for the advantages: better overall power band. You won't lose as much low end torque and yet you'll gain top end power. You'll also have a much better idle quality than you would w/ a comparably large hydraulic roller. The increased ramp pressure makes for some really explosive feeling power and a great exhaust sound.

 

No.

I'm running a fairly mild 230/242 114LSA 0.590/0.605 Comp Cams solid roller, with CC 1.60 Pro Magnum RR's. It all fits under the stock valve covers quite nicely, and the alternator is in the stock location.

I would say with a quality valve train, you could figure on 6K miles between valve adjustments. I found that I can go the entire racing season with an occasional check, and seldom an adjustment. With shaft rockers, you could get away with even less frequent adjustments, but then you would need taller covers and an alternator relocation.

I don't find noise to be all that noticable... and what is there is music to my ears... sort of reminds me of the solid lifter SBC's from the late 50's and 60's. You can't reliably run a knock sensor though.

For a given duration, a solid roller will put more area under the curve, since it can have a much more aggressive profile. And you can look at much higher rpm (7,000-8,000range) without fear of lifter collapse. Does take healthy spring pressures to support the high rpm, hence the need for "quality" components.

 

Yeah, it sort of reminds me of my 67 tri-power BBC (L71) Vette that came oem with solids. As I recall it redlined at 6500rpms. It is pure music especially through chamber side exhausts.

But solids are not for a daily driver, IMHO.

 

I have shaft mount rockers but not a solid roller. I use the factory valve covers with a spacer. The alternator fits fine without any modifications to it. My spacer is actually to make up for a lower than usual valve cover pad on my heads.

 

Alright. Its a daily driver, lots of miles too, i love to drive. I understand it will be louder and will need more attention, but i dont mind that stuff. is the power gain in the "street" rpm range really worth it, or is it basically just for racecars. And what springs are we talking, something better than 987s, possibly triple springs? what are you running Injuneer? and would stamped magnum 1.6s hold up with polylocks?

 

Fred, how exactly did you handle the tuning without a knock sensor? We are comtemplating going with a solid roller on the 383's new topend and i want to know how large a can of worms i'd be opening.

-Brent

 

Lot's of dyno pulls, both on the engine dyno, and then a chassis dyno when the engine was in the car. I let "professionals" handle it. Every pull involved a fresh set of plugs, and an immediate examination of all 8 plugs with a magnifying glass. They showed me what they were looking at, to detect signs of detontation, but I couldn't see what they could. Seemed to have worked though, because it had no problem with a 275-shot.....

I think there were about 24 pulls on the engine dyno, but that included setups for NA, a one stage 125-shot for the street and the 2-stage 275-shot for the track. I had the car in the shop Wednesday to check the tune, and the last pull we made was number 39 on the chassis dyno. But I check the tune after any changes, or at the beginning of each season.

I finally took the time to make a video of an NA pull and a nitrous pull. I need to get it edited and on the net somewhere. The sound, with the nitrous, is impressive....

 

daaaaaaaaaaymn,

Was all that required because of the nitrous? Or would it be less work if you were only planning a NA setup?

Maybe we'll stick with HRoller. Bret is getting some AFR's worked by some sick porter. After that 383 buildup is cmplete the LT4's currently on the 383 will be ported and put on my 350.

39 dyno pulls, a magnifying glass, and plug changes sounds like something i don't want to mess with. It would be a great experience, but would definitly break the budget. I'm sure the ported AFR's with a nice HR will suffice.


thanks,
-Brent