When I go to adjust my valvetrain, is it necessary to turn the engine over at all? Or can I just set each valve as it is now and then start it up when I'm done hooking everything else back up?

 

No, at the very least you'll have to turn the engine over one revolution.

I like the 90* method where I turn the engine over 90* at a time following the firing order.

 

Hydraulic Lifter Pre-Load Adjustment

What is Hydraulic Lifter Preload? Mechanical cam designs require a running clearance or valve lash; hydraulic lifters are just the opposite. When the rocker arm assembly is properly adjusted, the pushrod must take up all the clearance and descend into the hydraulic lifter, causing the pushrod seat to move down by .020 to .060. The distance that the pushrod seat moves down away from the retaining lock is the Lifter Preload. The hydraulic mechanism requires this precise amount of preload for it to do its job properly.

What happens if the amount of Hydraulic Lifter Preload is wrong? If clearance exists between the pushrod and the seat in the hydraulic lifter, after the rocker arm assembly has been adjusted, you will have no lifter preload. In this case the valve train will be noisy when the engine is running. All of the hydraulic force produced by the lifter will be exerted against the lifters retaining lock, and this could cause the lock to fail.

If the opposite occurs and the pushrod descends too far (more than .060?), then you have excessive lifter preload. In theory, a hydraulic lifter can pump up whatever preload you put into it, therefore with excessive preload, as the engine RPM and oil pressure increases, the hydraulic mechanism will pump-up the pushrod seat. This will cause the valve to be open longer and lift higher. This will decrease the cylinder pressure, lowering the performance of the engine. If the preload is excessive it may cause backfiring from the engine. How to correct this situation will be explained in the next sections.

Methods to Adjust for Proper Hydraulic Lifter Preload
Hydraulic Lifters Can Be Adjusted at Any Engine Temperature Since hydraulic lifters can compensate for thermal expansion of the engine, the adjusting can be done with the engine cold; hot adjustment is not necessary. Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload: In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or Heel of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.

1. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinders “intake” rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)

2. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)

3. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at Zero Lash. Turn the adjusting nut down one quarter (1/4), or one half turn (1/2) from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly. Most high performance applications use ¼ turn.

4. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When that intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the “exhaust” rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

5. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

Do Hydraulic Lifters Need to be Primed with Oil? Many people mistakenly believe that hydraulic lifters must be soaked in oil overnight and be hand pumped up with a pushrod before installing into a new engine, this is not necessary. In fact, this could cause the lifter to act as a solid and prevent obtaining proper preload.

 

Ok, now I need to know how I can tell when I'm at TDC #1, so I can adjust intake 1,2,5,7 and exhaust 1,3,4,8. My hub is no longer accurate since I took it off and put back on blindly. So what do I need to look for to show I'm at #1 TDC?
Thanks

 

UPDATE: I went ahead and just adjusted all the intake valves at one time and then all the exhaust valves. I used the polylock technique described on shoebox. Tightened until it just resists, 1/4 preload, then tighten set screws. Didn't spin the pushrods. Hopefully all turns out well.

 

It won't. You will probalby break a valve spring from coil bind and drop a valve, that is if the motor even runs.

 

Please step away from the car and put the wrench on the ground!!

 

This is my first time doing this obviously, but can someone explain to me what I did wrong and how to correct me?

 

I should probably post what exactly I'm using also:

H/C swap, LE2 heads, Comp Cam Pro Mags, hardened rods

 

Did you turn the motor over by hand until the valve was closed on that piston?

 

I followed the instructions that came with the rocker arms. Turn the motor until the exhaust STARTS to open, then adjust the intake. I did all of the intake rockers first. When all intakes were adjusted. I turned the motor until the intake went all the way up, and about 1/2 to 2/3 back down. Then adjusted the exhaust.

I read on shoeboxes site that you have an advantage with the polylocks since you can tighten the lock until it JUST resists, and you should be at or very close to zero lash. Then tighten the set screws.

 

This sounds right. Earlier I was thinking you adjusted the valve without rotating the engine.

 

You have to do that with each valve individually.

 

Yes, I adjusted all 16 valves individually. Thank God, I thought I was gonna have to go back and redo it by the way you guys reacted lol. But the procedure I used and all that sounds ok now, right? You have me all worried I'm gonna damage something when I start it.

 

Bump the motor over with the ignition fuse removed just to be safe. Too much confusion here. If you want to make sure it is all well before you get it running for good just bump it over a few full rotations. I'm sure you did it right. Sounds like you just need to double check as we all like to make sure we do things right.