adjusting rockers while idling
04-14-2004, 10:52 AM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: South Shore MA
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adjusting rockers while idling
This may be a stupid questiosn but, I've heard this is an easy way to adjust the rockers. I'm in the process of a head swap and when I swap my ported heads Do I have to adjust the rockers by first find #1 TDC on the compression stroke first then go from there? My original heads are on the car now and I'm looking at the rockers and it appears that all the valves are closed 
I don't want to screw anything up when I put the new heads on with the 1.6 rockers. so basically is there anything I have to do to the rockers before I adjust them while idling?
hope that makes sense.
I don't want to screw anything up when I put the new heads on with the 1.6 rockers. so basically is there anything I have to do to the rockers before I adjust them while idling? hope that makes sense.
04-14-2004, 12:08 PM
#2
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Location: Albuquerque,NM--5,600 feet above you sea-level cats
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Your better off doing it with the engine off. Less of a mess.
I run mine once a week just to be safe, but that's only because of the solid roller I'm running.
Get a starter button. Local auto parts store should carrie that. Hook it to the starter. Now you should be able to turn the motor over with a push of the button. You can choose any cyn, to start with. Dosen't matter witch one. Now on to the adjustments.
Just when the exhaust valve starts to open(moving down) tighten down you intake valve on that same cyn, to zero lash and tighten 1/4 turn past zero lash. Some may tighten it a half turn, it's really up to you. Now, to adjust the exhaust. Just when the intake is closing(moving upwards) tighten the exhust same way, as you did the intake.
Hope this helps.
Neal
I run mine once a week just to be safe, but that's only because of the solid roller I'm running.
Get a starter button. Local auto parts store should carrie that. Hook it to the starter. Now you should be able to turn the motor over with a push of the button. You can choose any cyn, to start with. Dosen't matter witch one. Now on to the adjustments.
Just when the exhaust valve starts to open(moving down) tighten down you intake valve on that same cyn, to zero lash and tighten 1/4 turn past zero lash. Some may tighten it a half turn, it's really up to you. Now, to adjust the exhaust. Just when the intake is closing(moving upwards) tighten the exhust same way, as you did the intake.
Hope this helps.
Neal
04-14-2004, 12:21 PM
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: PA
Posts: 1,591
I strongly prefer adjusting them with the engine off. Both methods work, and both are easy IMO, but doing it with the engine off is safer for a number of reasons. I don't see any reason to adjust them while running when it is also so easy to adjust them while its not.
-brent
-brent
04-14-2004, 01:22 PM
#4
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I appreciate it, 
it looks like i'll be adjusting them with the car off! How easy is it to hook the starter button to the starter? and all I have to do is get the mark on the crank to 12 o'clock and make sure number 1 cyl is on the compression stroke?
it looks like i'll be adjusting them with the car off! How easy is it to hook the starter button to the starter? and all I have to do is get the mark on the crank to 12 o'clock and make sure number 1 cyl is on the compression stroke?
04-14-2004, 01:57 PM
#5
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Location: Point Pleasant, NJ... USA
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When you do initial assembly or replace rockers etc, you have to do them static [engine not running] to get them 'in the ballpark', so that the engine will run..
I prefer to do that, then do them again with it running, to 'fine tune' it..
Bottom line.. you have to first adjust them with it not running anyway..
I prefer to do that, then do them again with it running, to 'fine tune' it..
Bottom line.. you have to first adjust them with it not running anyway..
04-14-2004, 02:01 PM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: PORTLAND, OR, MULTNOMAH
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See Pnyklr's response.
I.e., When hook up remote make sure the coil wire is OFF becuase you don't want the sucker to start.
Make sure car can't move. Remote should have instructions, but basically one lead would go to the battery and the other to the "start" side of the solenoid.
Again: Start with any cyl and work your way around. EOIC I.e., bump engine until the Exhaust valve just begins to open (adjust intake).
Bump again until the Intake valve opens fully and is on its way to about half closed (adjust exhaust valve). EOIC (Exhaust Open, Intake Closed)
When adjusting the valve you should be able to twirl the push rod between your fingers and continue to tighten until it gets a little drag on it (this is 0 lash) now continue to tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn beyond the 0 lash.
Continue this process for each cyl until you finish. Button it up and your good to go.
Don't forget to put the coil wire back on.
I.e., When hook up remote make sure the coil wire is OFF becuase you don't want the sucker to start.
Make sure car can't move. Remote should have instructions, but basically one lead would go to the battery and the other to the "start" side of the solenoid.
Again: Start with any cyl and work your way around. EOIC I.e., bump engine until the Exhaust valve just begins to open (adjust intake).
Bump again until the Intake valve opens fully and is on its way to about half closed (adjust exhaust valve). EOIC (Exhaust Open, Intake Closed)
When adjusting the valve you should be able to twirl the push rod between your fingers and continue to tighten until it gets a little drag on it (this is 0 lash) now continue to tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn beyond the 0 lash.
Continue this process for each cyl until you finish. Button it up and your good to go.
Don't forget to put the coil wire back on.
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