Ok, I started the car up for the first time this week since my cam install, engine fired right up on first turn of the key which was cool but I think I adjusted my rockers too loosely, there is a lot of tapping. I adjusted them while the intake and timing cover were still off and used the method of starting at TDC by alinging the timing chain dots then doing one cylinder at a time then turning the crank 90 degrees to do the next cylinder etc. The guide I used said to tighten the adjusting nut down 1/4-1/2 turn after preload, I went just in between the two but that must not have been enough. I was going to try to just adjust them with it running now but I think so many of them are loose it's hard to tell when one stops chattering

Too make a long story short I want to go back over them all again using this guide from Shoebox's site:
http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/4th...#adjust_valves
Method #1 seems the easiest, I'm just trying to figure out the best way to get back to TDC now since I have had the balancer off and I'm not sure it's back in the exact position it was before removing it. Any suggestions?

 

Supposedly, the best way to do it is when the car is running and warmed up. Thats how I readjusted them. With it running, loosen the rocker till it starts clanking (tapping loud), then hand tighten until the tapping is minimized. Then do 1/4 turn and lockem down.

 

I went a full turn after zero lash. It seems like you need to go further to preload the lifter. Wait a while and you'll start seeing posts with good replies.

 

You should be adjusting your valves to 3/4 turn past zero lash. You should have installed the crank hub so that the green mark points straight upwards when piston 1 is at TDC. The only way I know of testing it is by sticking something in the cylinder (like a coffee stirrer or straw or something that won't break and you can't drop in there) through the spark plug socket and figure out when the piston's at the top. Also, you can check the lifter positions when you have the intake off. Both valves should be closed on cylinder 1 at TDC compression stroke.

 

I did mine using the finger on the spark plug hole 'method'.

Once you get compression, use the straw to get TDC as best you can.

After that, I used Shoebox's method #1.

Lastly, get the engine running and warmed up. Then do them over with the valve covers off using the method metioned by RealQuick.

¼, ½, ¾, or a full turn? Everyone has their preference.. It's your engine, do whichever seems best to you.

 

I tightened mine 1/2 turn past zero lash.

You can find TDC by the following:

Remove your serpantine belt.

Remove all your plugs.

Rotate the crank until the pointer is at the top.

Push a straw into the #1 plug hole. If you hit the piston you know its at TDC. If you don't hit the piston, rotate the crank one full revolution until the pointer is at the top again and you will now be at TDC for cylinder #1.

Tighten the rockers for that cylinder and then rotate the crank 90 degrees and follow the firing order and tighten the rockers on that cylinder.

 

Since I have all the plugs back in and everything I think I'll try turning it over using a finger on the #1 plug hole and the straw trick method to get there. After I get it readjusted that way I'll check for any tapping and readjust it while it's running if I still need to. Thanks for the info guys.

 

After using both methods before I prefere to adjust while running , even though it can get a little hot after awile. I tend to get things too tight when I use the static method.

 

When doing a cam swap I prefer to do it with the intake off, especially with guideplates. When both #1 lifters are bottomed out, you are at #1 TDC firing position. If not then your at #6.

Maybe your polylocks are backing out, I've used 1/4 turn past lash with no problems before.

 

I think I may not have had the lash correct before tightening them down the 1/4 - 1/2 turn, plus the car sat for about three months before I started it and I wonder if the lifters were not primed when I adjusted the rockers? I did what the guide says not to do when adjusting for lash -

If you were to keep checking the pushrod to see if it spins (which I did) wouldn't that mean the rockers would be too tight? Anyway, I'm just going to start over again and readjust them all at this point.

 

I wouldn't use the spin method, it is too unreliable, especially when your hands are full of oil.

 

I find that rotating the engine 90 degrees after each cylinder can be somewhat imprecise. Get yourself set up with #1 TDC compression.

With both rocker covers off, you will #1 is at TDC compression by watching what #6 does as you turn the engine. If rockers on #6 move, and those on #1 do not, you are on TDC #1. If rockers on #1 move, and #6 do not then you are #6 TDC compression, in which case you will want to turn the engine 360 degrees.

With #1 at TDC compression do these:

Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8
Intake 1, 2, 5, 7

Now rotate 360 degrees and do these:

Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7
Intake 3, 4, 6, 8

I find this to be the least hassle, and the most precise way to set lash. BTW, I like 1/2 turn of pre-load. I tried 3/4 but I felt it actually cost me a bit of performance.

YMMV